NYC Blog: Men's Fashion, Retail and Visual Merchandising | The Bespoken: For Gentlemen

You’ve Got International Male (part two of two)

 
Like every image in the catalogue, and there are over two hundred of them, most of the men appear shirtless and do not have a single hair on their heaving chests. I mean as in not one. I’m not complaining, in compensation they are chiseled, well defined, with multiple abdominals. They are free from blemish. They are uniformly tan. They are Atlas’. They personify the classic “Chelsea” aesthetic, broad pectorals, biceps and narrow waists. Perhaps because underpants are the stock and trade of undergear.com these men appear to have been Brazilian waxed, to the point where one wonders how do they stay warm in the winter?

 
Like every image in the catalogue, and there are over two hundred of them, all of the men are shot separately in a true commercial format. They may be flirting with the camera, they may be posing, or in the process of taking off a top, even flexing a muscle, but they are not doing it for each other. Still, there’s a sense of foreplay conveyed. They are the buffed and beautiful. Aside each photograph is a close-up, a detail what is known as a “crotch shot” as if they were sizing each other up. Peppered in the detail shots are “buttocks view“, what is known as a “back door.” The first few pages are titillating, it’s like foreplay.

 

 
 The men are hyper-masculine, as far from effeminate as can be documented. They could easily be straight with classifieds that read “bi-curious“, or “gay for pay”. Their photographic isolation begs analysis. It is just them and the photographer, who is supplanted by us, the voyeur. Granted, they may be on a beach, a pool, downtown, the gym or walking down a staircase, but they live in a world where no other man lives. They do not socialize, interact or seem to share any longing for human companionship. Are they solitary, independent or alone? Take your pick. Is this projection internalized homophobia, or simply an attempt to broaden the demographic base of straight readers who are less tolerant?

The underwear and swim pages fill 41 of the 68 pages. While every conceivable style and color is offered, it’s the lace-up bikinis, leopard prints, mesh knits, and brands with salacious names like Cocksox, Pistol Pete and Baskit that garner a second look. For those of us that are less endowed there is the Enhancement Collection, for those of us with love handles there is the Shape Enhancer Collection, think Spanx for guys. This season there are graphic and cartoon prints by UK artist in residence, Jon Burgerman for Bon Bon. Its appeal clearly directed towards the younger portion of their sque who have just graduated from their novelty tees and cartoon PJ’s. Its appeal is to the kind of customer who watches Glee, not a pedophile, but to whom a high school senior is very attractive.

 
Overall, the underwear collection speaks to men to whom confidence is a necessary ingredient to success. Red suggests power, purple aristocracy, orange heat, yellow vitality and blue security. Underwear is hidden, a mystery that can be shared, a surprise, something unexpected under a grey suit. Colorful underwear supplies a boost to morale like Viagra.

Men in the underwear and swim pages are closed mouth and do not smile. Of the sixty or seventy models, only one wears a smile. Joy is not a commodity that undergear.com trades in. These are pouty sullen lads. It is a convention of escorts who have been hired en masse to seduce the guests. The men are aloof. They say without mouthing a word…“come and get me!” Maybe one day I will.

 
There are no tighty whities or boxers with elasticized waistbands on any of the forty-one pages. Everything is skintight, form fitting and stretches to the contours of the genitalia like a compression sock. Imagination and modesty are two other values not embraced by undergear.com. Still the decadent color palate, the unexpected twists of color, the patterns and prints suggest that these men follow fashion, or are at least aware of it. 

 
Following underwear and swim comes casual or active wear. The kind of attire one might wear to a gym if one was trying to get the attention of someone else, instead of lifting weights, engaging in a cardio workout or actually sweat. It is not a mix and match world, nor is or a world of oversize fleece and dirty gym socks, like the real world. It is s a world of outfits named after exotic locales like Moroccan or San Remo Tunic, Venice or La Playa Drawstring Pant, the Torino Lace-Up Top, the Manchester Track Collection and the Montréal Techno Jacket. While the names invoke word travel, a continental view of the world, the clothing is perfunctory, and most likely made in China or India.

As with all things masculine, there are two pages of accessories. Shoes and boots are included. The pages are filled with leather cuffs, watches, a skull ring, a motorcycle money clip, sunglasses, and metallic bracelets and necklaces. None of it is very wearable unless you are trying to blend into a Halloween party where you have come dressed as Jesse James or Dog, the Bounty Hunter.

 

 
Now comes the fun, actual clothes, some of it wearable. Like all catalogs, it looks better in print than in real life. Still you will get what you ordered. Again, the clothing is given names to suggest a true International Male. Some of the exotic places represented in the items name are Beverly Hills, Iceland, Belgium, Aspen, Machu, Biarritz, Moscow, Florence and Brooklyn (just keeping’ it real). That’s right the “Brooklyn Hoodie“. In truth, most of the clothing could not be worn in the country it is meant to be inspired to represent. I don’t see the “Iceland Leather Jacket”, (a sweater hybrid) being practical in the Artic. The faux shearing and faux suede is a dead giveaway to Icelanders that you are not from here.

 

At times distracting, the collections are loosely cobbled together from former seasons and renamed with page headings and little tips, like Old School Cool, Street Smart, Grey Matters, Top Priorities: key this season texture and detail, Denim & Leather: like rock & roll they just go together, and Top Billing. These pages sometimes operate as a collage. Not an ideal way to show fashion, one model in the studio, one model is on the street. The catalogue appears to have been photographed by several different photographers. The editorials are weak, almost diluted, and have no real point of view. They appeared assembled like a quilt.

 
While we might dismiss it, at times the clothing could be worn by the male cast of The Jersey Shore. The collection has elements akin to Diesel, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Ed Hardy. The clothing is constructed relatively simply. There is nothing innovative, smart or cutting edge, but it’s not meant to be designed that way. The clothing has many details, frayed hems, ombre dye’s, zippers; big buttons, distressed washes, and snaps. You will not see these looks strutting down the runway. The collection is too pedestrian. It too lacks point of view. It lacks vision. What it has is mass appeal.

 

  

International Male  and its companion undergear.com may still too easily receive our scorn. Despite its mainstream evolution, it’s still an easy mark, a fashion target for our ire. Like the community it caters to, the catalogs remain easy to marginalize. It’s simply waved away as a niche category. The catalog flies below the radar of “respectable” like-minded “straight” companies like Jockey or Warnaco. It’s difficult to identify International Male/undergear.com’s impact and influence on popular culture and the gay community. But don’t be surprised, nearly every gay male in America is aware of International Male. Not only aware, but speak of it fondly as one of their first printed introductions into the gay community. The catalog inadvertently frames the gay males shopping habits. Taking what had to be a huge gamble at the time, the company knew that many isolated or closeted men were already viewing erotica in their homes, and mirrored that experience, albeit with shopping. That being said, the catalog has provided a kind of standard, a fashion language for over thirty years to show us what we can aspire to be, or obtain, and what constitutes “going too far” and being conspicuous. The catalog covertly asks… how out do you want to be, what kind of gay man do you want to become?

You’ve Got International Male

 
I have the undergear.com catalogue in front of me. Dare I open it? It is a Pandora’s box. It is a catalogue I am well acquainted with. I seldom purchase, but do enjoy perusing. I used to receive their International Male catalogue when the world was young and so was I. How young was I? I was young enough to be about the same age of the models. Alas, now I am currently too old to be their fathers, and too young to be their grandfathers. International Male now sells under the more popular undergear.com moniker, but it is a rose by any other name.

 
International Male is a solely mail-order business with no bricks & mortar locations. It is owned by New Jersey based group Hanover Direct. International Male was often dismissed as “low end” fashion and as “style without substance”. That may be true. However, the catalog’s significance should not be marginalized, International Male has traced the emerging liberation of gays since the late 1970’s, and transitioned to the metro-sexual movement of the early 1990’s. The catalogue company realized that many mainline retailers failed to recognize, let alone embrace its gay clientele. A demographic that wanted/needed something provocative, sexy, or yes…trashy. Men to whom a red leather jacket was more coveted than an LL Bean “Field Coat”. International Male was always a gay magazine, but one in which the words gay or homosexual were never used, but often suggested. The photographs were a Rorschach test for are you or aren’t you? It was a closeted world, albeit one with the door left wide open. The International Male catalog always carried a wide variety of men's underwear, but as that business rose in prominence, the undergarment category was spun off into a separate catalog, undergear.com, which focuses exclusively on men's underwear, swimwear and casual wear. It’s been so successful that International Male disappeared, but its clothing is still incorporated into the more successful undergear.com

 
Like junk bonds, junk cars, junk stores and junk food, International Male is difficult to resist. You know that may not be good for you, but it leaves you wanting more. It is difficult to argue with success. It is even more difficult to define just what success is. One measure is in numbers. Hanover Direct ranks number 104, just above the ubber successful American Girl (dolls) and Restoration Hardware in Internet Retailer's Top 500 Web Retailers. Safeway (drugs, cosmetics and beauty) ranks just above Hanover Direct. Hanover Direct mails out more than 180 million catalogs a year, the company sells home fashions (The Company Store, Company Kids, Domestications), as well as men's and women's apparel (Silhouettes, and Undergear). Each catalog has a corresponding e-commerce site. The demographic base for undergear.com is men ages 25-54. This follows my history as I started reading International Male when I was about 25 and today I’m fifty-four. So what happens next year?

 
Hanover Direct is owned by the New York-based hedge fund Chelsey Capital. Under the leadership of CEO, Wayne Garten, installed by Chelsey, Hanover Direct has pared down its operations, and has reduced its brand portfolio from twenty-two to about a half dozen brands. The multi-channel retailer is also boosting its online operations, and internet sales which have increased steadily since 2003, and which now accounts for about 50% of their sales. However, the recession in the US led to falling sales for many multi-channel retailers in 2009. Hanover Direct was not immune, the company saw sales fall to an estimated $363 million in 2009, from $395 million in 2008. Online sales accounted for $170,000,000 in 2010, and despite a faltering economy, growth was up 0.5 %.That’s a lot of polyester shirts, which retail for 64.00.

 

How do you sell a fantasy? While bloggers will cry foul, there is a phenomenon concerning International Male and its brother magazine undergear.com, which is exposure in the catalog, is invaluable. It’s seen! Casting calls for models attract the thousands. Over the years many famous models and actors have posed for the catalog such as Cameron Mathison, Kevin Sorbo, Charles Dera, Christian Boeving, Bruce Jenner, David Chokachi, Gregg Avedon, Reichen Lehmkuhl, Rusty Joiner and Scott King. While the clothing may appear effeminate at times, there is no question that the models personify a hyper-masculine (read: straight) ideal, pretty boys, bad boys, rough guys, tough guys and all sorts of archetypical males. International Male created looks for the cowboy, the sensitive poet, the surfer dude, the Euro trash gigolo, The gym rat, the disco queen, the athlete, the outdoorsman, the nerd, the biker, the Goth, and the sophisticate. On one page a model is shot donning shorts in a mini-camouflage print, the model is wearing dog tags, but I fear it’s unlikely that this model is enlisted in the armed services. On another page, a model posed with a lime green neon bar that seems straight of a disco or some sleazy gym.

 
There was and is something for everyone. These men/models are an important part of the equation that made the catalog as successful as it was, and undergear.com as successful as it is. One can through their vivid imagination shop for potential boyfriends or liaisons as much as one can shop for bikinis or briefs.

 

 
Historically, International Male has been both beloved and ridiculed. It is clothing and costumes. It is conventional and kitch. It is pornography without any sex. It is a part of the popular culture. You might recall the classic Seinfeld episode about “the puffy shirt”. The puffy shirt often appeared in Interational Male, as “The Poets Shirt” International Male was a guilty pleasure. A catalog while never indecent could not be read openly on the subway or left on your desk for fear of reprisal. International Male was a catalog that you read privately in the sanctity of your home, if you had sanctity in your home. International Male is the Victoria’s Secret of the gay community. Granted, there are websites devoted to making fun of the catalogue, and indeed there was at one time lots to poke fun at, but that has changed and undergear.com is seeking to right its fashion wrongs. The company and its overall look has evolved. As of 2009, undergear.com has gone mainstream. It’s so mainstream it could be easily confused with Limited Express or Armani Exchange. Despite the spicy underwear pages, my straight brother could read undergear.com and potentially order a pair of jeans, graphic tee or tangerine collared boxer briefs.

 

 

 
In some ways, I miss the fun of the old International Male. Perhaps it was the insane fashion peppered throughout. Without meaning to be, it was a parody of high fashion as seen in the film Zoolander. International Male sold mesh shirts that were reminiscent of a Gautier or Galliano’s collection… had they gone very awry. It was a catalog where you could purchase a zoot suit, a silver lame blazer, suede lace up jeans, a three piece suit in purple or pastel pink, crushed velvet undies, a monochromatic polyester-rayon shirt and tie in blinding gold metallic, a full length faux fur in white fox, an overcoat that reminded you of the Matrix, or a black leather laced up top reminiscent of Pirates of the Caribbean, there were print shirts in tiger stripes paired with brown leather jeans and fussy psychotic Colonial outfits that looked like they were discarded from Ann Rice’s, Interview with A Vampire. International Male was a pastiche of club wear, trashy, and overtly sexual. The magazine was “coded” with tongue in cheek references, like describing as item, as a “Going Cruising” jacket, which was not designed for wear on a Carnival Cruise or the QE2.

 
This season’s cover has a comely young man, a dirty blonde, with tussled bangs. He has bulging biceps; the right arm is adorned by a fierce looking biker’s tattoo and a black leather cuff. As for posture, he leans back casually and his right hand rests on the back of his derrière. He has pursed lips and bedroom eyes that suggest a sexual liaison may be forthcoming. His expression is just a bit perturbed, almost angry, as if he is being challenged or teased. Where his he? He is alone except for me. He leans against a riveted stainless steel wall that could be an industrial elevator or some pretentious designers SoHo loft. What is he wearing? A deep V-neck tee shirt in a simple black python skin print. It’s made not from actual python like Orpheus Descending, but a polyester-spandex knit, which is tight enough to show his abdominal muscles. He is wearing a low-rise thong (which seems an oxymoron) with a strategically located cut-out and a contoured pouch with a no-show waistband. If you are not a thong kind of person, there are trunks, briefs and bikinis available in the collection. The collection is all identified as “Extreme” as in “Extreme Python this” and “Extreme Python that“. Not satisfied with a plain leathery looking python, in true International Male fashion the fabrication has been described as “gloss and glam” and it is as shiny as a freshly polished pair of boots. I have yet to open the catalogue.

Please return in a few days for the final installment of You’ve Got International Male

Eco-Gear for Men

Dear Readers,

Todays post come from guest blogger, Erik Braunitzer. I hope your support his work with your affirmations.

Erik writes...

 
There’s an underlying compassion & strong competitive nature behind the core of man, which is why a majority of men live an athletic lifestyle. In due course, this perpetual motivator encourages greater endurance and strength, which are themes commonly associated with sustainability. Yet, the ecological version of ‘sustainable’ directly relates to how natural systems stay productive and diverse by renewal.

As we excel further into the 21^st century, scientists and manufacturers alike are constantly looking to improve their brand’s durability while keeping true to the theme of “eco-friendly.” Many manufacturers of athletic gear have exceptionally durable products and clothing, but they haven’t quite entertained the idea of introducing organically made materials. Then again, the folks at Zeugma may have found one such solution.

They are producing a ninety-five percent organic-cotton material that imitates most of the qualities of regular petroleum-based fabrics - all this minus the synthetic additives. Like most “wick-away” athletic gear (i.e. Under Armor), it’s still very breathable and doesn’t lose color.

And unlike some cheaper fabrics and clothing that has the tendency to fall apart or fade over time, Zeugma gear does not. Traditional wick-away gear made of acrylic; nylon or polyester has been known to self-destruct or pill. Simple abrasion from every day wear/cleaning provides grounds by pilling or unraveling. This earth friendly gear is actually constructed quite tightly, leading to less “balling up” and wear.

 
Although, as any other material, it still should be treated with care. It’s not recommended to wash any more than necessary. Nor should you purposely beat up or stain your Zeugma attire. Simple tricks for keeping these somewhat expensive shreds are as follows:

• Load washer loosely
• Turn them inside out (color maintenance)
• Short washes
• Wash permanent press and knits separately
• Fabric Softener

Zeugma uses company owned manufacturing processes to guarantee quality activewear. First used by yoga manufacturer Prancing Leopard, Zeugma is another great leap in company sustainability.

Courtesy of Douglas Elliman Realtors, New York Rentals.

COLOR MY WORLD

 
 
Timing is everything in life. Several days ago (June 21^st) I noticed the new Google logo was homage to Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami, known in part for his use of bright colors. Murakami is the new darling of the “art scene”. Well, nothing happens without reason. I receive frequent postings from www.bonobos.com a local (New York City) men’s pants manufacturer who I’ve written about before, “Cute Boys In Pants” (June 6^th 2010) who were promoting their line of colorful pants and wild summer prints. “Look”  I said to myself, “they’re practically drawn from the same color palate. What are the chances? But I dismissed it as mere coincidence. Then as is my practice, I was obsessively checking my facebook, and saw an update on “friend” Christopher Hayes’ page of a recent typography project he was designing using bright colorful text. Among other things, Mr. Hayes is the manages his own business, www.christopherhaynes.co.uk “Look” I said to myself, “it’s practically drawn from the same color palate too.” What are the chances?” Three different people, on three different continents, working in different disciplines, were referencing the same design trend, and one that’s just catching on in popularity. It is not coincidence, I said to myself. “The universe is conspiring and trying to tell me something… but what? Yes, sometimes I am dense.

Timing is everything in life. I came home that evening and pulled out an old album, that’s right, an LP, a disk that requires a turntable. I put on Petula Clark who I accompany while I fix my dinner. We practically sing in the same key. Here it comes… one of my favorites "Colour My World" (written by Tony Hatch and Jackie Trent) which was released in December of 1966. The song/album failed to chart which was a surprise for the beloved “Downtown” singer. In retrospect, the song (like many trends) was a little bit ahead of its time. It anticipates something that has not quite happened. “Colour My World? Huh? What” said the American public? The emerging psychedelic/hippie generation was just coming into vogue No one over eighteen got it! The song went nowhere fast.

Then something unpredictable happened, all three of the television networks ABC, CBS and NBC (there were only three) converted all their prime time shows to color that following fall. Black & white TV was now passé. Color was introduced to America, and there was no turning back. Advertisers could now sell their new avocado green refrigerators; we could finally see Lucille Ball’s red hair, and the new blue Ford Mustangs, Windex and Scope mouthwash…in color! Reinforcing the racial temperament, the empowerment of color, black is beautiful, rainbow love and acknowledging the tenir of the times, Perry Como was out, and Laugh-in was in. Presto-Chango! A full year after its release, “Color My World” entered the Billboard 200 in February of 1967, and remained on the charts for twenty-seven weeks, peaking at  number forty-nine. Finally. the world caught up. Here's a link!

Petula Clark - Colour My World (1966)

Well what goes around comes around. Its about forty-five years later, and once again we find ourselves on a color precipice. The last twenty years have been full of black, charcoal grey, taupe and navy. The color spectrum of our closets runs from A to B. We are half sick of our uniforms. Granted, these remain economically challenging times but the culture is beginning to embrace color as a form of optimism and identity. 

 

  

 

 

 

 
Murakami, Bonobos and Mr. Hayes can color my world anytime. I’m ready to sign up. Here are a few side by side images of their work. They say great minds think alike. You can see the parallels for yourself.I’m going to invite you to do two things. Visit www.bonobos.com. It’s a terrific company ! And please visit www.christopherhaynes.co.uk  Please return shortly, as I’m going to be posting a full profile on Mr. Hayes later in the week to formally introduce him to you.

   

 

 

 

 



 

  

 

 

Seen And Heard

This is line for line, word for word, a direct transcript of a recent conversation as seen and heard at Gracious Homes, on the Upper West Side of Manhattan.
 

SALESPERSON: Can I help you?
 

CUSTOMER: No one can help me. I have to make up my mind. Usually, I’m a good decision maker, I know just what I want, but today I just don’t know. I just have no confidence.
 
SALESPERSON: Well, if you need help I’ll be right over there. (Points towards lampshades)
 

CUSTOMER: So you’re going to leave me, just like that?
 

SALESPERSON: No madam, I…
 

CUSTOMER: Madam? Do I look like a madam?
 

SALESPERSON: No, mad…no…what is it you’re looking for?
 

CUSTOMER: I’m here, in towels, isn’t it obvious?
 

SALESPERSON: These are new. The color is butterscotch. Isn’t it dreamy?
 

CUSTOMER: Yuck! Butterscotch! I’m not a butterscotch person, I’m looking for turquoise, and I don’t see anything turquoise in this entire store. I was already in Bed, Bath & Beyond, and Layton’s, which was a madhouse, and all over Macy’s, which is always a nightmare, and I had a 10% off coupon, and no one has anything turquoise. What’s the deal? It’s like there’s a conspiracy…
 

SALESPERSON: …There’s no conspiracy. I can order you turquoise, but it will take six to eight weeks to come in. How about an accent color?
 

CUSTOMER: No, it has to be turquoise, I already repainted. Eight weeks, that really means three months. I’m sooo frustrated. I’m ready to cry.
 

SALESPERSON: (Under his breath) Tissues are in aisle three, upstairs. How about teal? Teal and turquoise is nice.  

CUSTOMER: Are nice. I use to teach English. I don’t want to rub a teal towel around by body when I get out of the tub. Would you? Would anyone? No wonder you have a pile of them. What do you think about these? (she holds up a red towel)
 

SALESPERSON: Red and turquoise? It’s too Pee-Wee's Playhouse. How about ivory or white, that goes with everything.
 

CUSTOMER: I already have white. White is so blaa! I’m not a blaa person. Can’t you tell?
 

SALESPERSON: I know you’re turquoise. How about… no... no…forget it...
 

CUSTOMER: What were you’re going to say?
 

SALESPERSON: This is called “cerulean mist,” but it’s really closer to aqua, its very Santé Fe.
 

CUSTOMER: Santé Fe, that’s sort of '80s Golden Girls, don’t you think? I don’t know... maybe… no…it’s not me.
 

SALESPERSON: I just sold a set to Kelli Ripa.
 

CUSTOMER: Kelli Ripa? Hmm. I love Mark Consuelo. He’s so cute. I wouldn’t mind having the same towels as him. 
 
SALESPERSON: And last week, I almost sold a set to Dr. Oz’s wife…what’s her name?

CUSTOMER: Lisa Oz? Okay, you sold me…”cerulean mist.” Now can you help me in shower curtains? 


SALESPERSON: That’s not my department. Mark! Can you help a customer in shower curtains?

CURTAIN

Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva.com where it appeared on June 22, 2010

 

Chilli Beans

This is not a food blog, nor are any recipes forthcoming. Chilli Beans is a sunglass retailer. The company has over 200 doors in Brazil, Portugal and several right here in the US. Chilli Beans is poised on the precipice of going global. If you are not familiar with the retailer, you will note that millions of Brazilians are, just mention the company and Brazilians light up as if it was Christmas.

Caito Maia, CEO, spoke at Alshop. He is cute, smart and sexy, a triple threat. He is the equivalent of our Horatio Alger, the boy next door, a rags to riches, classic underdog. A true romantic he wears a simple sterling silver hoop earring, one in each lobe invoking a little bit of Jack Sparrow. Caito Maia works hard. This is a CEO in dark wash jeans, graphic tee, sports jacket and laced up Keds. Undeniably, he a Peter Pan (Is he dreamy...try a Google image search). My guess, he’s fun on a date, and possibly at the Board meeting. He is insufferably charming, and made an inside joke during his presentation (in Portuguese… I got the gist) that Brazilians were the most creative people in the world (insert spontaneous applause). The charm came from him acknowledging that sitting in the front row were two Americans, the President of the NRF (National Retail Foundation) and me! We have an old saying in the US… “Oh, Yeah!” And they say that Americans have gumption. I would take issue with him, except that I have to admit that Chilli Beans is brilliant, is innovative and is creative…very. Is Caito Maia unattached…no one will tell me.

The Back story: after the graduation in high school, Maia started in the music program at University of California, Berkeley, in the United States. Well, everyone wants to be a rock star. During this period, he observed the sunglasses buying behavior of American youths in relation to fashionable design and affordable prices. In 1994, Caito came back to Brazil, and like a comet, the trajectory of his career went this way. He started by selling to friends until he became a wholesale supplier to big designers such as Forum, Zoomp, Carmim, Ocean Pacific, Iódice, Alpargatas and Opera Rock. In 1996, Caito decided to dedicate himself exclusively to the retail eyewear accessories market, and launched Chilli Beans. In 2006, this entrepreneur was honored by the JCI Junior Chamber International during “The Outstanding Young Person Award“, he was chosen as the outstanding Brazilian in the "Commercial, Economic and/or Business Success" category.

Chilli Beans has a website, www.chillibeams.com.br twitter account, face book page and all sort of social networking opportunities. There are the beautifully designed stores, kiosks at malls, and now a vending machine that dispenses product with the certainty of a Coca-Cola machine.

Chilli Beans uses a digital mirror, a high-technology tool developed exclusively with Chilli Beans. This state of the art technology recognizes the shape of your face and gives you your ideal choices of frames with styles that are flattering to you. Cameras adapted on flat screens with the touch-screen system film clients and freeze their image. Therefore, clients choose their sunglasses more easily, and may send images to the desired e-mail address. Ideal for people needed a second or third opinion. Once you select a style, the mirrored screen places a virtual pair of sunglasses on your reflection, so as you turn your head you can see how you look in ¾, and in profile. Presto-Chango you insert your credit card, and out pops the perfect frame in a beautiful limited edition carrying case. It’s so technologically advanced that it makes shopping at Eye-Glass Hut like taking a dirigible to the Victorian period.

The Digital Mirror is also a marketing aid, able to communicate campaigns, promotions, perform opinion surveys, capture mailings and, most importantly, create a mutual experience between consumer and brand. UV 400 Digital Photometer, the photometer, available in all points of sale, is a modern device that tests the lenses and enables consumers to check, rapidly and precisely, the UV protection provided by Chilli Beans sunglasses. Total care with consumer's eyes. Brilliant!

The advertising for this company is so smart and stylish that it could be hung on your bedroom wall. It’s graphic, sexy, provocative and rises far above standard commercial photography.

Prolific with fast fashion? Sunglasses: Chilli Beans launches about ten models of sunglasses per week, a product mix that meets the requirements of all their customers. The handmade premium line uses noble acetate and a differentiated color palette. All lenses have UV protection. Watches: Chilli Beans watch line follows the same concept applied to the sunglass collection, with bi-weekly launchings for people of all styles, from classic to modern. About 200 options with an exclusive design and innovative technology are offered. The materials used include stainless steel, brass, aluminum, silicone, PU leather and carbon fiber. Accessories: accessories complement Chilli Beans sunglass line. Those include lens-cleaning sprays, hard cases, flannel, sicurezza (cord) and glass holder clips for vehicles. In addition, Chilli Beans introduces limited-edition products such as caps, T-shirts, purses and other accessories that make up the visual identity of a fashion trend updated audience.

Chilli Beans also sponsors shows, festivities, sports and social actions, always celebrating originality, good mood and diversity. I hate to admit it, but Ray Ban doesn’t have this level of scope.

Chilli Beans operates with two points-of-sale formats: kiosks and stores. The kiosk offers a simplified infrastructure, ideal for shopping mall halls and galleries. It has a modern layout, and provides easy access to products. Chilli Beans stores, in turn, have a complete infrastructure, with standardized architecture, a clean environment and open displays. Without losing the kiosk concept, it also encourages direct customer contact with the product mix and the brand.

I could go on and on about Chilli Beans. They are primarily successful for one reason, and it’s not just the sunglasses. It’s that that they actually understand, and know their customers. They actually engage with their costumer. I went into six different sites; there was activity in very outlet. Sales staff was talking, moving about, helping customers, asking questions, replenishing stock, talking about the World Cup and Lady Gaga. There were loads of kids, tweens, teens, young adults and even old curmudgeons like me. I never felt out of place. I was actually welcomed. Several salespeople asked me to wait while they found someone who spoke English, One enterprising salesperson went to a near by dessert place that left her counter to assist me, what did she tell me… “Chilli Beans is the best, I love them!” Okay, I didn’t buy a pair of sunglasses, but I did buy a brownie!

　

Shoe Business

 

While I have never worn a pair of heels (nor shall I), there is not a shoe shop I haven’t tarried in at some point in time. I may have told you that I love Shoe-Woo and Saks’ Women’s Shoe Department, both are exceptional. I have photographed the windows of Aldo, Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blanhik, and even (clutch the pearls) Sketchers. I am casting them aside like a pair of orthopedics. Why?

Galeria Melisa (Rua Oscar Freire 827 01426-001 São Paulo, Brazil) www.melissa.com.br

 
Partnering with Muti Randolph, the architect behind the electronic music temple D-Edge’s retro-futuristic beat box design, Galeria Melisa transforms its exterior and interior on a seasonal basis. When I was there, it was an urban garden motif. The exterior was clad with abstracted organic graphics in shades of verdant green and full of abundant live tropical greenery. One was immediately prepared on the street with a delightful expectation of what might be in store. It was enticing. The interior walls were clad with a self-adhesive skin portraying a dark rain forest, primordial, almost magical. The walls were peppered with small interactive screens, which seemed to hover like a CGI effect from Avatar. Dotted, like exclamation points were neon sculptures, one of a rainbow butterfly and the other a series is of strings darting here and there, like a net.

Running in counterpoint to the physical environment was the upbeat music, bright and happy, jazzy and sexy, which imposes a kind of modernity.

   
 
 
Okay, all that is well and good, but what about the shoe fixtures, the carpeted cubes, the glass shelving, and two tiered tables…there were none, well practically. Galeria Melisa has instead white cabled strands, hung like vines at different lengths coming down from the ceiling. At the end of each cable is a large plexi bubble peacocked like soapsuds. Inside each bubble was one shoe on a riser floating like a dream, not unlike the way that Glinda the Good Witch descends to OZ. From the cable was a LED light illuminating the shoe. Shoes are displayed like fruit on a vine…brilliant! Each bubble, and there were dozens, strategically captured the reflection of the rainbow neon …hello!

 
 
Galeria Melissa’s hip, shoes are made in collaboration with design stars like Rashid Karim and look like art objects from outer space. It is the shoe as sculpture, a piece of affordable art. These shoes are more likely going to be displayed prominently on your wall than on your closet floor.

The shoes at Galeria Melisa are not made of leather, hyde or any kind, fabric or rubber. The shoe is 100% PVC plastic. The shoes are not glued in pieces, but cast seamlessly like the Philippe Stark “ghost chair”. A plastic shoe? Are they comfortable? Customers swear by them. Are they comfortable? People do wear those ugly crocs. Are they comfortable? People wear painful heels all the time. The shoes have a luxury look with a moderate price point, running about 75.00 US dollars on average. The shoes are so superbly designed, and executed that it’s only a mater of time before MoMA purchases the collection.

 

Galleria Melissa has stores all over the word and can be purchased online. For it’s unique visual merchandising, radical approach to selling and reinventing the perfunctory shoe I can only urge you to visit, if not in person than virtually.

ADCO

This week finds me in Sao Paulo, Brazil, to speak at the BrazilShop 2010 Retail Convention, one of the largest conventions in South America. I will be speaking as a kind of international ambassador, on global merchandising, branding, and inspirational windows that communicate directly to consumers. With little time or access to post, I’m sharing posts about my favorite things, great window displays, great retailers, great companies, great photographs, and great colleagues. If it sounds like I‘m beating my own horn again with another story about Canada’s, ADCO www.adcogroupworld.com  you will have to forgive me. They are always worth sharing. Suffice to say upon my return I will have a slew of stories and photos to share with you about Brazil.

Since my last post on ADCO I understand the world has not beat a hasty retreat to the company’s US Sales Director, Antonino Libasci (cell) 514 898-0180  or www.adcoworldgroup.com I can’t make it more easy for you, can I? Here’s why you need to check out ADCO, beautiful design, very competive pricing, an immaculate corporate history with on time deiveries, better that average deliverables, and simply a wonderful person to work with. Not many companies can boast those attributes.

ADCO sells internationally, including Italy, long known for exceptional design and great mannequin houses. Here are some images of a recent project for La Rinascente, in Duomo Square, Milano, Italy that speaks volumes. If ADCO looks this great in La Risascente imagine how it will look in your store window or on your sales floor. Again, I’m not a paid spokesperson. I’m just a fan of great work!

 

 

ADCO has a new catalogne piece for  their modern collection avaiable in any color you can imagine, but shown in georgous neutral monochrome colors of black, grey and white. These styles are today, they will be just as stylish tomorrow.

 

 

 


 

Cute Guys in Pants

I have had the same measurements since I was senior in high school. I had a 32” waist and a 32” inseam. That is considered a standard size. It didn’t matter; pants hung off of my derriere, bunched up in my inseam, and were tight across the thigh. I was eighteen, okay.

Let’s take a time machine back to 1976, when I was in High School, Jimmy Carter was elected as President, the top single, Love Will Keep Us Together, by Captain and Tennille was released, Rocky was the top rated film, Patty Hearst was found guilty of bank robbery, and postage stamps were a whopping .13 cents. Rest assured, we had no cell phones, personal computers and the notion of buying bottled water would have seemed “crazy”.

Its thirty-four years later, and I still have a 32” waist, and a 32” inseam. Guess what? The world has changed… a lot but some things never change. Pants still hang off of my derriere, bunch up in my inseam, and are tight across the thigh. The world has changed, but like Romeo’s ever-constant moon, pants have not. I will try on twelve pairs of jeans before I might find an adequate fit. I will go through the entire fourth floor of Macy’s Men’s Designer Department before I might find a pair that does not require alterations.

What can you do? Designers don’t seem to know how men are actually shaped. Let’s just thank God that designers don’t work for NASA, otherwise Russia would be on the moon.

At the risk of sounding like an old curmudgeon, pants have not fit since Henry Grethel and John Weitz had offices on 7^th Avenue, but now I stand corrected.

Rejoice! A savior has come!

 

Bonobos was created in 2007 by Brian Spaly and Andy Dunn while they were roommates at Stanford Business School. (Do I smell two over-achievers?) As legend has it, (as per their website

www.bonobos.com) Brian began altering pants for himself using a girlfriend's sewing machine until their friends who liked the well-fitting pants so much that they demanded pairs of their own.

I don’t know what’s in the water at Stanford, but they should consider opening up a fashion department. Here’s why smart guys are attractive. Spaly and Dunn (sounds like a comedy team) pooled their resources, applied their business acumen, and started Bonobos to solve a simple problem: men’s pants just don’t fit well. They’re either too tight to be comfortable, or too baggy to look good. By innovating in a few key areas, they’ve developed a fit that looks and feels great for a wide variety of men… like me… like you!

Take a look at your pants right now. Are they bunching in the waist? If so, you’re not at fault, it’s not you. You’re not the problem. Bunching up is typical with most men’s pants, the waistband is cut straight because it’s easier to sew, but with Bonobos proprietary curved waistband it follows the natural shape of your body. As a result, their pants never ride too high or too low.

 

As for flying by the seat of your pants, Bonobos employs a fitted style through the seat of our pants, giving you a much sleeker look. You will not need to ask your girlfriend (or boyfriend) does my ass look good in this? Thighs and whispers, Bonobos’ pants are slim enough to be flattering, but relaxed enough to let you move, and be comfortable in just about any situation.

I put my pants on one leg at a time. Designers will push trends like appliqués, acid washes, studs, fancy stitching and pockets the size of feedbags on your behind. This is why guys hate to shop, it’s not them. It’s not me either. “Bonobos likes their clothing to embody the fun-loving, discerning men who wear them. We don't believe in trend chasing or ego stroking; we just love making great products and helping guys find the comfort, confidence, and fun that accompany smart style.”

Bonobos pants have many other attributes; you’ll visit their website

www.bonobos.com. There’s better than average fabrics including Belgian cotton, cotton twill, mid-weight corduroy, pinwales, and wools (have you noticed there are no synthetics in that list?) Pants are offered in “limited runs”. As in, not everyone will be wearing them, an exclusive, and somehow a little bit more precious, a little more special. Pants come in straight legged and boot-cut styles. (For you fashioned challenged… boot-cut pants are approximately one inch wider at the heel than at the knee.) Many of their pants are lined with fun, patterned liners, most of which are their own unique and colorful designs. Any only you will know. On some of these styles, they now offer the choice of whether this liner shows through in the back pocket, allowing you to decide how fashion adventurous you are.

 
Last week I was in H & M, a retailer I really like, but I could not find a sales assistant, and when I did, whoo boy that was no help. Not a problem, I walked over to ZARA, they not only didn’t have my size, but they didn’t have any of the items on the mannequins in the window. It was not my lucky day, the music was loud, the dressing rooms were claustrophobic, and the floor was dirty. I saved myself two hundred dollars that day. Oh, I did buy something… lunch.

At Bonobos, they have a relatively ingrained corporate mission to provide a customer service experience that separates the men from the boys. They say that is what makes them different. “We employ intelligent, empathetic people that provide exceptional customer service, free shipping, easy returns, and overall a fantastic experience.” Okay, so I made a secret phone call to their offices, to see if I was being conned. The sales representative who is called a “Ninja” is like my new best friend. He gave me such great advice I’m thinking of calling back to get relationship advice, maybe he can help me manage my 401K, Lord knows, my Chase representative has been no help.

 

Bonobos is a virtual store; there are no bricks and mortar locations, at least not yet. Bonobos is just a click away. Bonobos offers a simple and hassle-free online shopping experience. The website is easy to navigate, and organized the way a real guy thinks. I went online several times and enjoyed it in the comfort and privacy of my own home, and at my own schedule. Bonobos offers FREE shipping on all of their products, anywhere in the United States. Say what? They have devised the most accommodating return policy in the business: “any pant, any time, and any reason.” They pay for all domestic returns and exchanges.

 

Okay, jaded readers thinking, yeah, but that’s capitalism at work, and smart marketing. It’s true, but Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren aren’t doing it, and trust me they can afford to.

You’re still a cynic. Bonobos supports several altruistic endeavors for those of us that want to feel like we’re contributing something to the planet by our hedonistic purchases.

A Bonobo is a nearly extinct primate. Being its the company namesake, “it also happens one of the most amazing creatures on Earth, a peace loving, communal living, and yes, sexually promiscuous Great Ape that possesses nearly all of modern man’s better traits. Sadly, but unsurprisingly, these animals are in incredible danger, teetering on the verge of extinction due to deforestation, poaching, and the atrocities occurring right now in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.” You can learn more about what Bonobos is doing to help, (on their website) including donating $1.00 for every new customer, and $5.00 for selected products. If endangered animals aren’t your bag…

Bonobos also has a great program called “Band of Brothers” If you are a public servant, a teacher, a fireman, a police officer, a nurse, a member of the Armed Services; they want to honor your choice to serve. To determine if you are eligible for a Bonobos Band of Brothers discount, write to them explaining who you are, what you do, and why you believe you qualify. When was the last time someone did something nice for a schoolteacher?

  

Okay, I have never worn a pair of their pants, but my order has been placed. Will it generate a follow up? Is the Pope Catholic? I've never seen him in pants!

My Favorite Things: Esprit

Forget the brown paper packages tied up in strings, warm woolen mittens and bright copper kettles, I have been to Macy’s Cellar, and the clearance section at TJ Maxx. I’m over it, like the way I’m over the Swine Flu and Kate Gosselin…very!

Is shopping an addiction? They say in Shopaholics Anonymous that one bag is too much, and 10 bags are never enough. Well, I’ve never seen an x-ray or blood slide showing me my flawed shopping chromosome, but I know I have a genetic tweak. Luckily, my bank account is finite, but it doesn’t cost anything to look (or innocently try on)--which brings me to Esprit.

In the '80s, Esprit was “the brand” for polos, khakis and the preppy look. When that look went out, I went out with it. I took a 20-year sabbatical from Esprit. Twenty years later, I’m taking a second look. Esprit is sort of my Jason Bateman of retailers, cute then (20 years ago), but cuter now.

Esprit has placed considerable effort into their store windows, mostly focusing on the imagery of the American West, Route 66 and the great outdoors. It’s storytelling that reflects backwards while moving forwards. Does it work? I think so. 
 

 
I thought their holiday widows were just a fluke, as they referenced CS Lewis’ "The Chronicles of Narnia," with an Aslan the God-like lion, the white witch and even a full-size unicorn, a beast so magical that even kings can’t ride them. Narnia, where it is always winter, but never Christmas. A retailer using literary references…Hmm…

 

The recent launch of the new flagship location on 34th Street in NYC had live (as in flesh and blood) models (naturally young, hung and attractive) dressing and undressing all day. Here’s how it went down. There was a pile of clothing that was dumped with a pitch fork into the comer like my dirty laundry. Models randomly picked items from the pile and dressed, then posed, conveying to passersby that everything in the store was sort of coordinated, mix and match. As in, you can’t make a mistake in our store. Garanimals for adults? Well, that was interesting enough; except (BONUS) once fully dressed, the models began to undress, as in strip down to their Esprit undies. Crowds on the street were enthusiastic. A little sex goes a long way, a lot of sex goes even longer.

 

Now here’s where the rubber hits the road. I noticed a slim cut constructed gray jacket that looked aged, as in bleached in the Arizona sun in the window, which just screamed out my name. It was the kind of sharp blazer that George Maharis would have worn when traveling from Memphis to Atlanta with Martin Milner. It was hip with a touch of rebel. Now I’ve shopped at H&M, Forever 21 and ZARA, which as we all know all know is nothing more than a snare and a deception (bait and switch). What’s in the window is seldom available in the store. So I was reticent to proceed inside to Esprit. Holy Moley, not only was the jacket in store, but they had it in my size, and (BONUS) they gave me a $20-off coupon (limited time offer). Did it fit? It fit so well I wish they had it in a few other colors. Okay, so I’m greedy. The second step in Shopaholics Anonymous is admitting I’m powerless over clothing…when it’s on sale!

 

“Esprit d’ corps” is French for the spirit of the company, as in morale, creating a positive spirit. Hello! I will no longer be summarily passing this retailer.

 

Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva.com where it appeared on April 19, 2010

 

 

Forget the brown paper packages tied up in strings, warm woolen mittens and bright copper kettles, I have been to Macy’s Cellar, and the clearance section at TJ Maxx. I’m over it, like the way I’m over the Swine Flu and Kate Gosselin…very!

Is shopping an addiction? They say in Shopaholics Anonymous that one bag is too much, and 10 bags are never enough. Well, I’ve never seen an x-ray or blood slide showing me my flawed shopping chromosome, but I know I have a genetic tweak. Luckily, my bank account is finite, but it doesn’t cost anything to look (or innocently try on)--which brings me to Esprit.

In the '80s, Esprit was “the brand” for polos, khakis and the preppy look. When that look went out, I went out with it. I took a 20-year sabbatical from Esprit. Twenty years later, I’m taking a second look. Esprit is sort of my Jason Bateman of retailers, cute then (20 years ago), but cuter now.

Forget the brown paper packages tied up in strings, warm woolen mittens and bright copper kettles, I have been to Macy’s Cellar, and the clearance section at TJ Maxx. I’m over it, like the way I’m over the Swine Flu and Kate Gosselin…very!

Is shopping an addiction? They say in Shopaholics Anonymous that one bag is too much, and 10 bags are never enough. Well, I’ve never seen an x-ray or blood slide showing me my flawed shopping chromosome, but I know I have a genetic tweak. Luckily, my bank account is finite, but it doesn’t cost anything to look (or innocently try on)--which brings me to Esprit.

In the '80s, Esprit was “the brand” for polos, khakis and the preppy look. When that look went out, I went out with it. I took a 20-year sabbatical from Esprit. Twenty years later, I’m taking a second look. Esprit is sort of my Jason Bateman of retailers, cute then (20 years ago), but cuter now.

Esprit has placed considerable effort into their store windows, mostly focusing on the imagery of the American West, Route 66 and the great outdoors. It’s storytelling that reflects backwards while moving forwards. Does it work? I think so. 
 

 
I thought their holiday widows were just a fluke, as they referenced CS Lewis’ "The Chronicles of Narnia," with an Aslan the God-like lion, the white witch and even a full-size unicorn, a beast so magical that even kings can’t ride them. Narnia, where it is always winter, but never Christmas. A retailer using literary references…Hmm…

 

The recent launch of the new flagship location on 34th Street in NYC had live (as in flesh and blood) models (naturally young, hung and attractive) dressing and undressing all day. Here’s how it went down. There was a pile of clothing that was dumped with a pitch fork into the comer like my dirty laundry. Models randomly picked items from the pile and dressed, then posed, conveying to passersby that everything in the store was sort of coordinated, mix and match. As in, you can’t make a mistake in our store. Garanimals for adults? Well, that was interesting enough; except (BONUS) once fully dressed, the models began to undress, as in strip down to their Esprit undies. Crowds on the street were enthusiastic. A little sex goes a long way, a lot of sex goes even longer.

 

Now here’s where the rubber hits the road. I noticed a slim cut constructed gray jacket that looked aged, as in bleached in the Arizona sun in the window, which just screamed out my name. It was the kind of sharp blazer that George Maharis would have worn when traveling from Memphis to Atlanta with Martin Milner. It was hip with a touch of rebel. Now I’ve shopped at H&M, Forever 21 and ZARA, which as we all know all know is nothing more than a snare and a deception (bait and switch). What’s in the window is seldom available in the store. So I was reticent to proceed inside to Esprit. Holy Moley, not only was the jacket in store, but they had it in my size, and (BONUS) they gave me a $20-off coupon (limited time offer). Did it fit? It fit so well I wish they had it in a few other colors. Okay, so I’m greedy. The second step in Shopaholics Anonymous is admitting I’m powerless over clothing…when it’s on sale!

 

“Esprit d’ corps” is French for the spirit of the company, as in morale, creating a positive spirit. Hello! I will no longer be summarily passing this retailer.

 

Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva.com where it appeared on April 19, 2010