NYC Blog: Men's Fashion, Retail and Visual Merchandising | The Bespoken: For Gentlemen

On Being Invisible

Boors are quite conspicuous. Gentlemen are sometimes invisible.

I wish I had a bonified superpower, like the ability to fly like Iccarus or Superman. Alas, I am but a mere mortal, hopeless earthbound. While I pride myself on my instincts, intuitiveness and intelligence, which at times may make me appear to have ESP, as I can “read” people with the clarity of a charlatan, I am not really gifted with extra sensory powers. I barely have my five full senses.

I do have one attribute, which is inadvertent, just one of those quizzical accidental benefits of birth; you see I am not attractive. I am quite ordinary, what is sometimes described as “commonplace”. At age 51, I have never (in my entire life) been described as handsome, beautiful, or even sort of cute. Oh, I may not be ugly, but if you saw me waking down the street and had to line up all the men (a random sampling) and line them up from most attractive to least attractive, I would inevitably stand somewhere firmly in the last half (low hand side) of the scale. I have not yet had a Susan Boyle epiphany. My lack of comeliness is not a complaint, (although I would not mind being gorgeous) because my lack of physical appeal makes me practically invisible. This attribute in the hands of a mad scientist like me is a superpower.

I am now going to share a secret with you that only ordinary people know, but dare not utter; the world does not pay attention to people like us. The majority simply do not see us. We do not register. We fly to low to be detected by the radar of natural selection. When we stand patiently in line, and are clearly next, the cashier will ask, “Whose next?” Strangers do not approach us for directions; they look past us and ask the homeless man on the corner. I am usually introduced last, like an after thought, as in “Did I forget to mention so & so“. I am so invisible in fact; my name is often excluded on e-mail lists at work. I receive more mail to resident and occupant than to my given game. This sometime includes my bank statement.

Being unattractive may sound like an utter drag, but in truth, it gives me the opportunity to observe. At parties and social gatherings, places people tend to congregate and gossip I become father confessor. I see people for who they really are, being invisible allows me the freedom to see what people are really like. There is little I could reasonably do to alter my appearance. Therefore I can only rely on the caliber of my contents.

The compensation for being unattractive is fashion, which is why I adore clothing. I understand it’s ability to transform us, but fashion is a bandage, like the invisible man it is only bandages that give us outline.

Hybrids

We all know that hybrids are everywhere. You take two popular movies like “Roman Holiday” and “The Prince and the Pauper” and you get “The Princess Diaries”. Soft drink companies take two flavors one tart and one sweet, and you get (neither tart nor sweet) pomegranate-kiwi tea. Geneticists have grown the fuzz off of peaches and (although I don’t know how they did it) even crossed a firefly and corn on the cob to create a kind of glow in the dark ear. (Double yuck!) Granted, you take two great things to create one not so great item, but it has the allure of a two for one. Anyway, while hybrids are neither feast nor famine, everyone is doing it. Clever marketers try to convince us we’re getting some new and improved…sort of.

 

Retailers slow on the draw, are now catching up to Hollywood and Madison Avenue. Today’s retailers are creating hybrid concept stores. The first sector that really has caught on to the concept are  supermarkets, like “Whole Foods”, who in selected stores have a spa, where you can get a pedicure, manicure, light facial or massage. All spa products are “not tested on animals” and meet “Whole Foods” stringent organic requirements. Other supermarkets have eliminated food products from their shelves to introduced movie rentals, greeting cards and expanded their take out areas to rival most franchised chicken joints and sushi places. Frankly, if a date asked me out to have sushi, and took me to the A & P, the romance would be over.

Some clever men’s wear shops are installing barber shops where you can get a shave and a hair cut while the hem on your new pants are being altered. They’ll even shine your shoes. Unfortunately, ever since I saw “Sweeny Todd” I’m terrified of straight edge razors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Borders photo credit: Laszlo Regos

“Borders” (books) stores are integrating digital centers where customers can download music and books that might not be readily on their shelves. This in essence offers the retailer access to nearly every title printed without the need to stock it. Borders, cognizant of its techno-inclined customer also have computer kiosks to research family histories and print out family photos. The first hybrid store opened last year in Ann Arbor; it must be successful, as thirteen other stores are set to open in ten states this year.

“The Gap” (Fifth Avenue, NY) as partnered with Pantone (paints) havaianas , (sandals) and “Pure Body Yoga Studios” and trendy French retailer Collette to create pop-up shops to draw customers into their adjacent store where their perfunctory tee-shirts and jeans are sold. This ever changing hybrid concept seems to support “Gap” sales and makes the “Gap” a destination spot to pick up something extra and unexpected, an incentive long a long way these days.

The jury may be out on some hybrid concept stores, but rest assured it does seem to invigorate sales. I’m all for hybrids, with one notable exception to the publisher (shame on you) who reported that that were taking two classic books to create a new fantasy series. Rest assured, I will not be reading “The Diary of Anne Frankenstein.”

Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva.com where it appeared on September 23, 2009

Cereal Killers

We all know that “Secret” is just for women, and “Irish Spring” is a “manly soap”…but that you (lasses) “can like it too,” but now Wheaties, is doing them one better and rebranding itself as Wheaties “Fuel”. The manly cereal for men who do not eat quiche. Yes, it’s packaging looks like “Axe” or “Tag”, those super stinky body washes for tween males, but if five hunky athletes in tight tees set against a dramatic black background doesn’t grab your attention in the techni-colored world of the cereal aisle, then you might as well resign yourself to a rocking chair. The graphic is so strong it looks like a movie poster for a Bruce Willis movie.

Out with yesterday’s newspapers, Wheaties which use to use 1933 tagline “The Breakfast of Champions" has reemerged with the declarative three direct word tagline, “Fuel. Win. Evolve." The first set of boxes will be printed with the moniker “Special Collectors Edition”. Don’t laugh, there is cult following of cereal enthusiasts who collect cereal boxes for a pastime.

The new product was created with the guidance of a sports nutritionist, and five athletes, including Colts quarterback, Peyton Manning, Boston Celtics power forward, Kevin Garnett, Albert Pujols, first baseman for the St. Louis Cardinals; Bryan Clay, a decathlon gold medalist; and Hunter Kemper, a triathlete. But are athletes any good in the kitchen? Okay I might like Peyton Manning making me breakfast in bed, there I admit it!

The black box is overtly masculine, and black is the color of elegance, an important fashion color sure to appeal to moms shopping, they might buy the cereal for their husbands, but no harm comes from mom checking out the sweaty athletes too.

Fuel is being marketed specifically to men, using a variety of samplings given out at sporting events and samples promoted in Men's Health magazine to get the word out; the updated cereal was honed down to a top three to undergo final analysis. So far, the changes in the actual product are minimal, less folic acid (too feminine) and more vitamin E. And how about more sugar (quick energy) Wheaties, was a basic wheat flake, whereas Fuel is much sweeter than the original in fact, each “Fuel flake is 25 percent sugars by weight, compared to original Wheaties, at 15 percent. Fuel will not include snips and snails and puppy dog tails. The new and improved Wheaties will hit supermarket aisles in January 2010

(Original) Wheaties, which has a 60% male customer base already, has never been male-exclusive in its marketing, its box has featured female athletes many times, but it may have found an approach with legs this time, catering just to guys, if so Mary Lou Reton, try Fruity Pebbles.

In today’s uncertain times guys need all the reassurance thy can find. So not surprisingly the cereal and the marketing are centered around the idea of “performance” and “performance enhancement“. While testosterone and Viagra may not be in the mix, it is suggested in the advertising. This cereal is so masculine looking that he cereal bowl doesn’t even have a spoon. After all, cave men eat their cereal right from the bowl, like Labradors.

Factoid: Wheaties (the original) was, invented accidentally when a health clinician in Minneapolis who was simmering bran gruel for intestinally distressed patients spilled it onto a hot stove and it dried into flakes, was introduced by the Washburn Crosby Company (now General Mills ) in 1924.

Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva here it appeared on September  16, 2009

When Celebrities Design

 

The artistry and craft of fashion design is seldom taken seriously. Fashion designers are seen like the Wizard of Oz, its all hocus pocus, magic, all pretense. Nothing could be further from the truth. There is a perception especially amongst celebrities (mostly studio-enhanced singers) that anyone who can afford designer clothes, and get on “Peoples Best Dressed List can be designers too. After all, if you look that good in couture, and already hang out with Dolce & Gabbana, why can’t you design that well too, it couldn’t be any more difficult than singing; you just push a button, slide the reverb so you don’t sound so flat, light the pyrotechnics, and leave the rest to management. If they’ll buy my album, they’ll buy my jeans. Please just don’t ask me to sketch or sew. Trust me, those are Lee “Press On’s”, I’ve seen Jennifer Lopez’s nails…she doesn’t sit at a sewing machine all day.

Case in point, September 10^th was donned “Fashion’s Night Out”.

www.fashionsnightout.com A brilliantly executed series of events to promote the fashion industry during these difficult economic times. I have only four words to say… “Thank You, Anna Wintour”. The evening was run better than last year’s Presidential campaign. That being said…

Last Thursday night, hundreds of shrieking girls (and a few boys) mobbed the fifth floor of Saks Fifth Avenue's flagship store in New York just to snap a few fleeting pictures of pop star Justin Timberlake on their iphones. Timberlake was not there to promote his last album; he was there to show off his new fashion line. If only his clothes were as popular as he is, or his music is. Rest assured, no one really cared about buying his clothes. Shanice Rogers, a 21-year-old Timberlake fan from glamorous Neptune, N.J., says, "I first had an issue with celebrity brands because everyone was doing it." Still, she has a hat and T-shirt by William Rast: "I like the style," she says. Unfortunately, a hat and a t-shirt do not a collection make. Mr. Timberlake, 28, is co-founder of a fashion brand called “William Rast”. Suffice it to say the company didn't hit its first-year sales targets until its second year in business. Timberlake makes no illusions that he doesn’t design the line, but suggest that he somehow overseas everything, just like Frank Morgan. Hmmm.

You think it would be enough to be one of the most successful entertainers in the world, with six Grammy awards and two Emmys. Yet being taken as seriously in the fashion industry has been harder than the former Mousketeer and N’Sync cutie anticipated. No CFDA awards have been forthcoming. Mr. Timberlake has a 50% financial stake in “William Rast”. The company, co-founded with Mr. Timberlake's childhood friend (and actual designer) Trace Ayala. After a few shaky seasons under their low rise belts the two recently hired superhero design duo Johan and Marcella Lindeberg, of the J. Lindeberg brand, to help school them in fashion design. In fact, the company spent $1.4 million for the Lindebergs' design services last year. That’s an awful lot of schooling. Are they throwing good money after bad?

The struggles of celebrity-laden lines are a sign of the times. The downturn in high-end fashion is hitting celebrity-backed brands hard. Many celebrity designers have disappeared like the Dodo bird. According “The Licensing Letter”, which is a trade publication U.S. sales of celebrity-licensed products, fell to $2.9 billion last year after peaking in 2006 at $3.5 billion. If not incendiary, but adding fuel to the fire, "Every D-level celebrity who thought they could make a quick buck by designing a handbag or whatever is going to disappear," says Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour. "And I think that's a good thing!"

The result of the economic storm and the ailing celebrity designer syndrome is a growing graveyard of celebrity brands. Jennifer Lopez's six-year-old Sweetface line disappeared more quickly than her film “Gigli”. Albeit the heavy hyped line failed to capture the consumer. The line really didn’t seem to look like anything Ms. Lopez would even wear. Most embarrassing were the interviews when Ms. Lopez was asked to describe her line or design process, unfortunately, there didn’t seem to be any. Yikes, what was her publicity agent thinking? On a Today show interview Matt Lauer seemed to be more knowledgeable, now that’s scary! André Benjamin, one-half of the rap duo OutKast, unveiled his Benjamin Bixby menswear line with a big party at Barneys New York during fashion week last year. He was the media darling. The line had charm and appeal as does Mr. Benjamin. Now, Barneys no longer stocks the line. Ouch!

The reality of the fashion industry is far different from the world of reality TV. Other celebrities no longer appearing on clothing tags include reality star Heidi Montag. Certainly, her appearance with husband Spencer Pratt on “I’m A Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here” didn’t help. I guess the Amazon jungle was less hospitable than “The Hills”. A publicist for Ms. Montag says the Heidiwood collection "was intended to be a one-year deal" and that Ms. Montag is still interested in the fashion industry, yeah right! Reality TV co-hort, Lauren Conrad closed her upscale collection in March after just a couple of seasons. Ms. Conrad later announced a deal with Kohl's Corp. for a more affordable collection, which launches next month; a publicist says, Ms. Conrad put the upscale line "on hold" to focus on Kohl's and plans to prelaunch it next year. The hills may be alive with the sound of music, but I don’t recollect seeing any sketchpads or dress forms on The Hills.

Pop singer Mandy Moore lost her line, as did Nicky Hilton, Paris's sister. Representatives for Ms. Hilton and Ms. Moore didn't return calls to the Wall Street Journal who were seeking comment. One wonders if Cloris Leachman, Elizabeth Hasselback, Ivanka and father, Donald Trump, Shakira, Miley Cyrus, Jessica Simpson, Paula Abdul, to mention just a few name are just cluttering up the fashion landscape. Are any celebrities really committed to design beyond the Olson Twins?

Celebrity branding isn't a new phenomenon. The rise of magazines and blogs that track celebrities' every move has given people like Mr. Timberlake, who was named GQ magazine's best-dressed man this year, more clout in influencing mainstream fashion trends than some designers. So what’s up? The growth of celebrity lines has also been fueled by department stores' demand for unique products amid growing competition from specialty stores and cheap-chic chains like Zara and H&M. Celebrity lines have been a fast way for retailers to generate buzz. The allure is this customers believe that they are capturing the attributes of the celebrity by purchasing their clothing. A kind of psychological symbiosis occurs. It reminds me of William Inges, one act play, “To Bobolink, For Her Courage”, which was about autograph hounds hoping to magically absorb a celebrity’s character by getting their autograph. But with celebrities behaving badly and living it up while we’re trying to make ends meet doesn’t make for an empathetic relationship, does it?

But not every celebrity brand is ready for the growing competition. "Regardless of the personality behind the label, the product must be on trend to be successful," says Ron Frasch, President of Saks Fifth Avenue. Mr. Frasch cites L.A.M.B., a five-year-old brand designed by the platinum-haired singer Gwen Stefani, as one of the few celebrity labels that the retailer carries. Ms. Stefani, who presented her spring 2010 collection last Thursday, says that instead of creating an eponymous line, she intentionally called the label L.A.M.B., which stands for "Love, Angel, Music, Baby," the title of one of her albums. "I always envisioned it being something that would be able to stand on its own four legs," she says.

When celebrities design is like when the blind drive a car.

The Insignifigance Of Me

I am a man of fashion and late at night when the universe begins to hums, when I lie in bed, I dwell on the insignificance of me. Curiously as a tomcat, it helps me to fall fast asleep. Slumber comes like a narcotic.

The distraction of the television and its vague voices has slipped silently away like a thief. The kettle has cooled from the tea. Like a sentry, I earnestly lock the front door. The lamp has been turned off and the heat of the bulb dissipates like a hot acrid perfume. The alarm clock has been set, and its metronomic beat like a ghost shadows my pulse. My covers have been sufficiently knocked about, and now are as warm as sand against my skin. It’s now the trivialities of the day are blown away like the soft gossamer of dandelion seeds, that I begin to asses the insignificance of me. I was not born under a bight star. Which is not to suggest that I am without any redeeming qualities, but to suggest that my life is just a miniscule part of the universal plan? I am an extra in life’s narrative, a face in its crowd scene. Life is something I observe. My participation is not integral. Regrettably, I am not a George Bailey. Sometimes I wake up happy knowing this, other times just passively content, and sometimes, I wake up in a foul mood at the very idea.

I am one of millions in a city wrestling with sleep. I am one of billions in a world wrestling with sleep. My pillow is pressed under my neck and folds softly around my head like a slice of Challah. My breath becomes shallow as the cup of a petal. The pale scent of this morning’s cologne is present. I do not pray, but with equal measure weigh today against tomorrow. As puppeteer, I pull the strings of what I know remains today and what I hope tomorrow promises. The herky-jerky movement the disembodied dance of my skittish thoughts slowly untwists and release like a deep breath. Today is temporal, passing too fast to recognize, and bridges my petty nightmares and pretty dreams.

“What a deformed thief this fashion is.” William Shakespeare, from “Much Ado About Nothing"

Crop Circles

Those mysterious crop circles have once again magically appeared as the world slept. No, they did not pop up in Southern England as is usual, but all over the world, and on desktops everywhere as Google’s newest version of its eponymous icon to look like it was composed of crop circles. Last week Google altered it’s icon to feature UFO sightings. So what’s going on at Goggle? Are aliens taking over? Is Google’s Creative Director an escapee from “Close Encounters”? The crop circle "Google doodle" remains an unexplained phenomenon, as are some real-world crop circles. Asked about the today's crop circle motif, a U.K. spokesperson for Goggle could offer no explanation, sounds like they worked at NASA.

Google periodically alters its logo, to remind us visitors (from earth, not outer space) that today was Picasso’s birthday or that Darwin is celebrating an anniversary. Google has been the most successful commercial enterprise to alter its iconic logo, as often as several times a week and remain immediately identifiable. Let’s face facts; no human could be that smart.

Not without history, real crop circles first drew attention way back in the mid-1670's, but remain enigmatic. They came into prominence again when they were photographed from the air in fields in the county of Wiltshire, UK around 1970. They were comprised mainly from flattened cereal crops such as wheat and barely. The crops are flattened, the stalks bent, but never broken. The capillaries swell at repetitive angles. Nothing seemed forced or trampled.

The earliest examples of crop circles were fairly simple in design. Over the last twenty-five years, the formations have evolved from plain, relatively small circles to huge designs with multiple circles, elaborate pictograms, some with universal symbols, and shapes that invoke complex non-linear mathematical principles. Some seem eerily directional like traffic signals (as in… mother ships this way). One notable formation that appeared in August 2001 at Milk Hill in Wiltshire, UK contained 409 circles, covered about 12 acres and was more than 800 feet across. If crop circles are a prank, their complexity and uniformity defy simple explanation.

Does Google know that crop circle phenomenon has evolved, just like corporate logos have? In 2008, for instance, a 150-foot-wide coded representation of the first ten digits of the mathematical constant Pi appeared, and, this summer, a vast and spectacular jellyfish almost engulfed a barley field, defying all logical explanation. Are crop circles generated from natural phenomena or extra-terrestrial interference? Whether from outer space or not, in addition to crop circles sightings in a field near you, you can now add cyberspace to its retinue of sightings.

How do the local farmers feel waking up to find an entire field of flattened wheat? Crop circles pump millions of pounds into the English economy. The circles are a major tourist attraction, spawning bus tours, daily helicopter tours, T-shirts, books, and other trinkets. Crop circles draw people who believe the formations have a unique energy. They visit the formations as a sort of spiritual Mecca, to meditate, pray, dance, and commune with worldly spirits. (Coincidently that what I use my search engine for too. Farmers frequently charge a small fee or have a donation box for people who want to enter the circles. If Google alters it’s logo to look like Stonehenge next week don’t be surprised.

For Google, the magical mystical icons seem to generate visitors to its search engine. Maybe Macy’s should give that a try.

 

Down Under: Real Men On The Bottom "Academy For Men"

(Part Two of Two)

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

“Academy For Men” has a significant thrust toward artesian fashion, short runs, idiosyncratic designers, which is refreshing after reading a US men’s magazine whose advertising is identical to its editorials. Primarily mass produced ready to wear…I.e. uniforms. I was very enamored with a particular article, “From The Outside In” which takes the reader to a contrary, almost biting point of view concerning fashion, and offered a peek behind the scenes world of fashion, after reading the article, my conciseness was raised, tweaked. I was placed on alert, and as I was reading the magazine, I was forced to question assumptions, and scrutinized the magazine in a more acerbic way. The articles, as does many of the magazines articles, provide provocative, challenging and intellectually stimulating narratives. Was this planned or inadvertent? Mr. Ripper advises…“I have been in this industry for five years; I just like to keep things real, and show what really happens in this industry. I'm a huge believer of supporting new talent in fashion and offering them a chance to get exposure that they deserve, simple breaks like a piece in one of our shoots can help a label so much, it doesn't take much to help.” Either Mr. Ripper is a great con artist, and I have been hoodwinked, or he should be placed up for canonization or at the very least a Nobel Prize. Here is an editor that personifies what the fashion industry should be about, the exploration of what’s new, what constitutes great design, and how to exploit (in a positive manner) the artistry and craft of the emerging sartorial voice. Mr. Ripper, “You had me at hello“.

 

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

“Academy For Men” has the distinctive twang of an Australian voice, (that’s my read) so I asked Mr. Ripper how would he describe the Australian sartorial point of view? Is there such a thing as an Australian sensibility? And if so, how would he define it? He replies…“It almost depends on the city, I've found that all our capital cities dress somewhat different, for example Melbourne is always cold, so we tend to wear lots of layers and blacks, where as Sydney, Brisbane and Perth tend to dress in more colour.”

 

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

It is clear that “Academy For Men” is first and foremost a fashion magazine. In its issues, generous amounts of pages present all sorts of differing perspectives on fashion editorial and subject matter (well more than American mainstream where fashion editorials are practically an after thought following the ads). The art/creative direction in “Academy For Men” is very reminiscent of the “cinematic” style of photo editorial, how does that work to support the magazine’s hypothesis? “We do focus on fashion, but we delve into so many more areas such as music, sport, arts, and so.” Indeed, each issue has clearly defined points of view that rum the gamut to down and dirty, elegant and romantic, masculine and sexy, to poetic and poignant. It is almost like seeing a few great independent films stung together. The narrative is articulate, but not necessarily cohesive. Landscape, cityscape the natural environment, and idiosyncratic architecture are dominate, but not overwhelming. There are few (if any) fashion spreads shots in clinical studios against white seamless. In Australia, place/locale is important. Groovy!

I found it curious, and fascinating to see that in both issues deal with articles on facial hair “Home Grown” and the very witty, “To (Be)ard Or Not To Be(ard). In the US, at present, the clean-shaven look is still de rigor, is that not the case in Australia? (Do note: Mr. Ripper is fully bearded with waxed handlebar moustache, at least he is in his facebook page) he replies…“In Australia facial hair is huge, men love to be men, and this is apparent here.” My prediction, Give it a year or two, but American men will be following their Australian counterparts and beards and moustaches will come back into vogue.

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

Dollars and cents: Due to the economy and internet in the US, magazines and newspapers are in decline. The publication industry as we once knew it is rapidly disappearing. I ask Mr. Ripper does the same hold true for the Australian market? Do you think that magazines are becoming passé? I see that you are promoting your facebook, twitter and blogs, how pertinent is that to your success? How seriously to you engage and react to readers?…Ripper asserts… “The industry like the rest of the world is struggling, but I can see a change happening in Australia. As we're such a small country, these times show who will stay and who will fade into the shadows. Quality will prevail. We started as an online magazine, but our future will be in print, we just have to educate the market and explore many avenues before we take the next step. As “Academy for Men” is a huge believer in supporting the Australian male and our readers, we are in constant contact with them. Such sites you have mentioned have opened so many doors for us, and it certainly does bring us closer to our readers, and that’s what we strive for, we want connection, we always want to know what is happening in everyone’s world.” Again, “Academy For Men” could teach its American cousins a lesson or two on how to get things done. “Academy For Men” is a primer for how a magazine, or retailer should be engaging in social networking. America is still like the old lady in those Tweety Bird cartoons fussing with her lace doilies. That’s just how far behind we are when it comes to using technology. We are little old ladies!

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

I invite you, I beseech you on bended knee to visit the “Academy For Men” website, the magazine is fully available online. It costs nothing. After 2,000 words later, my summary is this, “Academy For Men” is beautifully written, beautifully photographed, and beautifully executed. Please join the cult of fanatics like myself, and join “Academy For Men”

Website: www.academyformen.com.au

Blog: www.academyformen.blogspot.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/Academy-for-Men/27121761709

Twitter: www.twitter.com/AcademyforMen

Myspace: www.myspace.com/rippertime

I ask Rhys as I prepare my article, what is the one thing that you want my readers to know? “You only live once, so follow your dream and become the man you deserve to be”. quote Rhys Ripper.

Down Under: Real Men On The Bottom "Academy For Men"

(Part One of Two)

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

I have often bemoaned the appalling state of the great American fashion magazine. I have lamented on the atrocious state of fashion writing, and fashion photography as evidenced in the “major“ magazines. While I stand firmly behind my words, I am compelled to report that a relatively new men’s fashion tabloid has emerged, and has captured my heart. Cue: Hugh Jackman on horseback. The magazine is not produced in any of the fashion capitols of the world like the slick and uppity city of New York, the suave and sophisticated city of Milan, or even the cultural paradise formerly known as Paris. My hero is not from a mythical land like Camelot, no, this extraordinary achievement in fashion editing comes from down under, as in Australia, a land where real men are on the bottom, (of the world literally) and Americans, Italians and Franc-o-files had better book their flight on Qantas…and fast, if they want a lesson on how to create a real fashion magazine. The magazine is… “Academy For Men”.

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

Like most Americans, I don’t know too much about Australia. I am a dilettante. To me I know Crocodile Dundee, Olivia Newton-John, Steve Irwin, Outback Steakhouse and Nicole Kidman. I am an idiot! Rest assured, Australia is a remarkable country, which I need to place on my radar. 

How do I best introduce someone I’ve never met, like Editor-in-Chief, Mr. Rhys Ripper to you, in his own words he summarizes… “My only expectations stem from myself to strive and be the best man I can be.”

It has been difficult to connect with publisher, Rhys Ripper, who is producing one of, if not perhaps the best men’s fashion magazine on planet earth. (I hear that Uranus Vogue runs a close second.) Mr. Riper who is talented, attractive and awfully smart, is a busy young man. While I do not have a lasso that reaches from my window in Manhattan to Melbourne, I was able to interview him extensively via e-mail. Regrettably, I was not able to be seduced by that Australian patouge that is masculine, romantic and charming…after all, what would Russell Crowe, Simon Baker, Guy Pearce, Eric Bana be without an accent? Something bland and American, like “Four Men & A Baby”.

  

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

The brilliantly executed title of the magazine, "Academy For Men” suggests academia, excellence, and intellectual pursuits, conversely; it also suggests a haven for men, a kind of homogeneous environment. The physical embodiment of the title is carried throughout every image, on every page. The models, and the personality features present men that have usually done something distinctive, whether it is athletic, artistic, or academic… but still something of value. One need not just be a pretty boy, have the good fortune to be in this summers blockbuster action adventure film, or be just ungodly handsome to achieve status. The men in “Academy For Men” radiate warmth and electricity by virtue of their talent. They are “real” people. Editor-in-Chief, Rhys Ripper reports, “I'm a strong believer in providing a media forum that embraces Australian male culture, and what we do in life. My mission is to give new and young men the exposure they deserve. I provide role models to inspire and push our readers in their life.” If an American fashion magazine was this audacious, this adventuresome, I would take a bullet for Anna Wintour or Gradon Carter.

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

I must admit, I was a skeptic, after seeing the first issue. I was certain it was an anomaly, and that given time the magazine would quickly lapse into conventional practices. I was wrong, and owe an apology to all those brawny men down under. With several issues under their rugged belts now, the magazines marriage of the use professional models and simply attractive men, presents a broader spectrum of what constitutes “beauty” than most mainstream magazines care to present. Indeed, at times unconventionally masculine men are used, including some that might at first glance appear to be geeks, feline, waifs, burly bears, roughs, punks or scoundrels. In most instances, the models are clearly identified , (not just tiny font in a side margin) thus becoming an integral part of the story, its reason for being, this is singularly different from what we are accustomed to in the US, where models are just mannequins, and as important as clothes hangers. Clearly, it works, but what is Ripper’s rationale? He says…“I see beauty in all males, and we present them in a way that is best suited to the subject. We create scenarios that suit the talent we're shooting. With our fashion, we choose the models that suit our themes. If we can't find a model within an agency, we'll scout a new model. Our database of subscribers has become instrumental in the success of Academy For Men, and we are often requesting our readers to step up, and let themselves be known whether for a new story, or a face for a shoot.” Granted, there are gorgeous men everywhere, all anyone has to do is call Elite, Ford or Casablanca, but it’s refreshing to think that beauty actually walks the street. This places “Academy For Men” in the 21^st century. Kudos!

© Copyright 2009 Academy for Men

There are many reasons why “Academy of Men” is so appealing. One of my principal interests lies in what clothing communicates. In “Academy For Men‘s” first issues, a broad spectrum of messages are conveyed through its choice, use, and styling of men‘s fashion. That being said, there is a predominate archetype that stands out. i.e. the rebel, although manifested in several incarnations, still rowdy “rebels” indie rock artists, truck drivers, surfer dudes, poets, are all outside the mainstream. This personifies a quintessential Australian value that bucks the status-quo.

I placed this question to Mr. Ripper, throughout several issues, Australia is a (if not the) central character, and even in stirring stories like “Home Is Where The Heart Is” there are passionate feelings expressed, a patriotism that is usually dismissed in America. What makes Australia so compelling, sexy, masculine, powerful…? Ripper is blunt… “Australian men are so different to anywhere else in the world, we're more rugged.” Beyond that, I would suggest that Australian men are genetically superior on the biological exuberance scale, mixing European lineage, indigenous native culture, a superior natural environment, a physically inclined culture, and a country relative free of most western environmental problems that Australian men are inclined to be classically hyper-masculine.

I asked Mr. Ripper “Is “fashion” even relevant? Why? His response…“Fashion is relevant in many aspects, but we don't dictate what to wear, we simple create visions.” How articulate and insightful is that? A magazine that creates “visions”, offers multiple lifestyles, different ways of being. A magazine dedicated to not dictating. I cannot tell you what a pleasure it is to read a magazine that also abhors those dreadful dictating lists like… “Ten Things You Must Own”, “What’s Hot, What Not”, and “This Years Must Haves”. It like taking a yoga class and learning how to breathe again.

Rejoin me on Friday, September 14, 2009 for the second part and conclusion of "Down Under". In the interin please visit "Academy for Men" at...

Website: www.academyformen.com.au

Blog: www.academyformen.blogspot.com

Facebook: www.facebook.com/pages/Academy-for-Men/27121761709

Twitter: www.twitter.com/AcademyforMen

Twitter: www.myspace.com/rippertime

Everything New Is Old Again

  

Tradition dictates that Labor Day ushers in the fall fashion collections, and the new TV season. One of the benefits of being as old as I am is that I’ve seen it all before. In fact, I’m so old now I’ve seen it twice before, which is why things like shoulder pads, Capri pants and “The New 90210” no longer rock my world.

Nearly always hand in hand, fashion and TV are sort of like love and marriage…or a horse and carriage. One of this year’s most eagerly awaited returns is the new season of “Ugly Betty”, the gem in the ABC crown. The show is an affectionate, if not biting send up of the fashion industry, and paints clothing designers, editors and models just the way we imagine them to be, vacuous, silly, self-absorbed, evil and sexy. TV critics have hailed the show as original, unique, refreshing, different and charmingly offbeat. The central character is protagonist Betty Suarez, (played by America Ferrera) who is described as breathtakingly ugly, and an international role model for full figured women. Google charts 7,240,000 sites devoted to interest in the show.

 

Well, the show may seem novel, but I can detect a copycat quicker than Forever 21 can spell Travota, Sui or Jacobs. There is nothing new under the sun, especially in fashion and TV. I am ashamed to admit it, but I liked the original series “The Ugliest Girl in Town” which also ran on ABC albeit in 1968. Critics were not so nice to the original, which was characterized as dull, depressing, trite, and cliché ridden. My favorite two jibes describing the series… “As humorous as terminal cancer.” James Doussard for The Louisville Courier-Journal, as “the first television series aimed directly at the 12-year-old transvestite” said, Newsweek’s Harry F. Waters. It was hailed as one of the worst shows on TV that year. That’s not true; it’s one of the worst shows ever on TV. You can judge for yourself at www.youtube.com.

 

“The Ugliest Girl in Town” and “Ugly Betty” begs comparison. You all know “Ugly Betty” so let me introduce you its genesis. In “The Ugliest Girl In Town” our protagonist is Timothy Blair (Peter Kastner) who is a perrenial chipper Hollywood gopher, he makes a cruddy 97.00 a week, and gets dumped on by everyone around him, but manages to get periodic digs in (sounds familiar?) Timothy is really in the dumps, his British movie actress girlfriend Julie Renfield has just returned to London. Cheerio! Tres désastre! Timothy’s brother is a fashion photographer (who gambles on the side) who just lost all the negatives for a big hippie fashion layout for a big British fashion magazine, so he reluctantly convinces Timothy to put on a long blond wig (all those hippies look alike). The photos are (get this) mailed via post to the UK, where an out of touch fussy fashion editor is bewitched, mistakenly taking (male) Timothy for (female) Timmi, and proclaims that this is “the new look he was after“, “Why she’s so out, she’s in.” Ugly will be the new beautiful. Move over Twiggy. The public will buy anything! With a hefty promise for a top fashion models salary Timothy reluctantly agrees to go it drag, and win back his girlfriend posing as a gender questionable model. Hello Carnaby Street. The plot lines are inane, but interjected like amphetamines are fashion shoots, and fashion shows that give us glimpse into the fabulous world of couture gone astray. Mary Quant is rolling over in her grave. The supporting cast is so absorbed in their own little dramas that don’t seem to be aware that the worlds newest fashion model is a guy. (Shades of Ugly Betty persist.) The costume direction at “Ugly Betty” must be channeling “The Ugliest Girl In Town”, Timmi, like Betty, makes little attempt to glam it up, with crazy bangs, bad dental work, horn rimmed glasses, ponchos galore, an inability to wear heels, chunky plastic jewelry and atrocious mismatched prints we are forced to wonder if Timmi or Betty are fashion challenged. Implausible? “Bosom Buddies” launched Tom Hanks career, and RuPaul has done just fine thank you!

If for nothing else the show had an infectious theme song is sung by the Wall-O-bees and can be found on www.youtube.com

"Who owns that fabulous face?…The ugliest girl in town!
Whose styles are setting the pace?…The ugliest girl in town!
You don't have to be a Mia or Sofia…This is the year of the clown!
Be the cheekiest, freakiest, ugliest girl in town!"

In what can only be described as a shockingly ill-advised attempt at marketing, “The Ugliest Girl In Town” was sponsored by the high-end cosmetics company, Yardley of London. Yardley described the series as “a wild, way out, fun-filled romp.” I guess they didn’t see the trailer. Well advertising strategies repeat themselves too, “Ugly Betty” is sponsored by Diet Coke. Hey, Coca Cola do you think that only ugly girls drink diet soda? Co-sponsor Uniliver produces anti-bacterial soap, yikes!

"Ugly Betty" premieres September 11^th.

Missing You Again: Lloyd Haynes

There are many performers who strike a chord with the public, they may become famous, even beloved, practically a part of our daily lives, and seem as close and dear to us as family, but due the short arch of their career, they disappear from view like low flying objects under our radar. When they pass away, it’s almost as if they didn’t really exist. Their obituaries are scant, and minimalize their accomplishments. There are too many performers who fit into that category.

Last night I saw a first season episode of the Emmy Award winning, “Room 222“. A TV show from my youth that was recently released on DVD. Granted, the quality of the set is poor, the once vivid color is all but bleached out like a pale memory, and at times, the stock is grainy, but from the first chord of that classic Jerry Goldsmith theme song, it’s 1970 again, and I’m back in junior high school, cue: soulful flute solo. When series lead, Lloyd Haynes arrives in his red Mustang convertible; a smile comes over my face. A long lost friend has arrived. I realize how much I’ve missed him. I had forgotten how insanely attractive he was. I had forgotten how he radiated intelligence and warmth. I began to miss him all over again.

Why wasn’t Lloyd Haynes a big star?

Haynes appeared in a number of television series and films, but is best recognized for his role as "Pete Dixon" in “

Room 222“. Pete Dixon, unlike most TV teachers at the time “wrapped” with his class, he took the kids and their issues seriously, and expected excellence in return. This did not occur on “Welcome Back Kotter” or “Nanny & The Professor”. Pete Dixon taught history and always made it relevance apparent, to dopy students like the shy girl, Helen Loomis (Judy Strangis) the militant, Jason Allen (Heshimu) the faux-stoner, Bernie (David Jollife) and eager beaver, Richie (Howard Rice). Deservedly, Haynes was nominated for both Emmy and Golden Globe Awards for his role. In total the show was nominated for seven Emmy Awards, seven Golden Globes and an American Editors Award. Both a popular and critical success, the series won many awards from educational and civil-rights groups. Both the critics and the public loved it. Despite its popularity, Haynes went home empty handed, however he did win a Television Teacher of the Year Award in 1970, for his role as Pete Dixon on "Room 222". In 2006, he was post-humulously nominated as Teacher of the Year, at the TV Land Awards. “Room 222” show ran for 113 episodes, and Haynes is the show. My God, did I mention how handsome he was?

''Room 222,'' aired on ABC from September, 1969 to January, 1974, and is still in syndication. Alas performers, the residuals are not forthcoming. A prestige show for ABC, it was usually wedged in-between “The Partridge Family” and “The Odd Couple“. Created and often written by James Brooks, “Room 222” was one of the first television programs to concentrate, in a compassionate and candid manner, on topical problems that affected urban youth, such as smoking marijuana, teen pregnancy, pollution, dropping out, finding yourself and racial prejudice. (You’ll note that this does not occur on “Saved By The Bell”) It might be easy to dismiss the show as strictly a period piece, but in fact, it’s a serious exploration of social mores and the cultural landscape as seen through the microcosm of the classroom. “Room 222” is a time capsule that authentically captures that brief period of time that takes place after the summer of love and before the hedonistic days of disco. (Hippies not required.). The show holds up. Yes, it’s dated, but good work is good work. Without making light, the show was so instrumental in bringing about change that young people watching it decided to go into education, because they wanted to be like Pete Dixon, and do something positive for the world. Haynes was a superb role model. It’s difficult to tell where Lloyd Haynes leaves off and Pet Dixon begins. It’s a perfect marriage of performer and character.

All the great writing only helps a great actor. Haynes delivers. He’s so natural, that I think he is a real groovy teacher at Walt Whitman High School (shot at Los Angles High School.) Haynes brings to his character, a kind of dignity, a resolve, we see him struggle with the status-quo, we see him get hurt, but not become vindictive, we see him get praised, but not become cocky. Haynes I surmise from a few interviews with colleagues was a lovely, gentle man, intelligent, quiet, and deeply spiritual, practicing the Bahá'í faith. This is a really nice guy.

I wish that ABC prime time would bring back the series to TV as a limited edition classic family show, instead of squandering it on DVD at Blockbuster. It would be a lot more interesting to watch than “Wife Swap” or “I Survived a Japanese Game Show”.

In looking at a few episodes, I was struck with the open sexual relationship Pete Dixon is carrying on with the school guidance counselor, Liz Macintyre (Denise Nicholas). It’s oddly candid how the students, and even the school principal, Seymour Kaufman (Michael Constantine) encourage it, describing it as “groovy”, “right on” and as “a beautiful thing”. It’s amazing how politically and socially awry, we’ve gone. Anyway, Dixon and Macintyre are an attractive couple, and I have to say, Haynes kissing scenes, which may be modest by today’s “Desperate Housewives” standards, are very hot. How could they not be? Haynes is wildly sexy...and an academic. I would love to stay after school in his detention class, alas, hands off, there is no question that this is a fully fledged hetrosexual male.

Haynes was handsome in that J. Crew kind of way. He wasn’t pretty, he looked masculine, confidant, strong and straight as an arrow. He would have made a perfect “Lion King“. As Pete Dixon, he’s dressed in typical relatively dull prep school manner. He’s not a clothes hanger, but his suits are sensible and classic. Every other episode we might see him at home, or on a date in turtleneck, but Pete Dixon doesn’t get mixed up into the frantic world of 70’s fashion, which included flared pants and floral prints for the other faculty at Walt Whitman. While clearly athletic, he wasn’t all that built or buff, but is cute in his tennis whites when coaching after school. Haynes had beautiful brown eyes, deep-set dimples, and a strong chin. He has stunningly dark skin, and short-cropped afro. His nose is broad, and so racially genuine that it speaks to some sort of royal lineage. He has thankfully seen no need for a nose job. Here is an African American male that makes no attempt to co-op the bland Caucasian look of his peers. He speaks to confidence, and to knowing that the authentic outlasts the pretentious. His look is timeless, he as attractive today as he was thirty- five years ago, perhaps more so. He is so inspiring that they should name a cologne after this guy.

Samuel Lloyd Haynes was born September 19, 1934, in South Bend, Indiana. He came from modest means, with a tough life growing up during the Great Depression. It was not a time where many people of color got the opportunity to excel. Haynes served in the

Marines Corps from 1952-1964 (twelve years) and fought for our county during the Korean War. Keenly intelligent and articulate he became a public-affairs officer for the Naval Reserve achieving the rank of Commander. This alone speaks to the caliber of person set before us. Following his military career, Haynes studied acting at the Film Industries Workshop and Actors West in Los Angeles. Jobs for African Americans were few and far in between. Haynes was a quiet pioneer; he started out as a cameraman, in order to get into the industry. Where one door was closed, another was opened, albeit only a crack. Again, this speaks to the contents of his character, because there were nearly no people of color in the Caucasian dominated cameraman’s union. Haynes real gift and contribution to the art of television was however in front of the camera, a camera that loved the incredibly attractive actor. Haynes became a real “working actor” when people of color found little work in the industry.

Haynes has a terrific resume, but some of the more interesting elements include that he played Ken Morgan on the daytime soap “General Hospital just before his death, a series he first joined in 1963, when few men of color were spotted on daytime TV. Therefore, his career was a completed circle, ending where it began. He frequently appeared on episodic television, like "T.J. Hooker", "Simon & Simon", “Marcus Welby” and “The Fugitive“. In other distinctive roles, he placed one of the first people of color super villains on “Batman”, as “Lord Chancellor“, how fun is that, but he even managed to date Diane Carroll on an episode of “Julia” around the same time. Haynes was the second lieutenant on the bridge of the original Star Trek pilot. Had he stayed, “Room 22“might have never surfaced. For those of you who were “Dynasty” fans (who wasn’t) he was the reoccurring Judge Horatio Quinlan who eventually sent Blake to jail. Boo...hiss! Haynes made a few feature films including a plum role in the all male, “Ice Station Zebra” While every Metro star was dumped into that film (including Rock Hudson) its Haynes who really warms it up.

Haynes died of lung cancer on December 31, 1986 in Coronado, California. He was only 52, with several marriages and children left behind. His illness was abrupt and painful. Always a true gentleman, before his death he called many people who he had worked with throughout his life, he thanked everyone, and reminded them that despite the fact that years may have passed, that he appreciated them. He said good-bye, and let them say good-bye too. That physical beauty I went gaga over before only pales in comparison to his inner beauty.

Tonight I will venture back to 1971, where Pete Dixon needs to reunite a father and son battling the generation gap, and gets into serious hot water with the school board when they find out he’s paying his students to learn how to read when he substitutes for the remedial reading professor. Okay, it will all be resolved with 22 minutes, Karen Valentine (Alice Johnson, student teacher) will throw in a few laughs, but I’ll get to see Lloyd Haynes smile, and I’ll begin to miss him all over again. I’m not ready to say good-bye!