There are always trends emerging in Visual Merchandising that can be spotted at some of America’s best retailers. Is there a conspiracy? Are they copying one another? Hardly. They each carry the theme off with their own distinctive voices, but the trends tell us what some of America’s most creative minds are thinking about. Window displays therefore become sort of a Rorschach test of the culture. Here are a few themes that I have spotted recently…
Reflexion: mirror, Mylar and glass seem almost everywhere these days. It doubles the merchandise in the window. It draws customers who peer in to check themselves out. Narcissists or not, we all need to fix our hair. Do any us dress as nicely as Prada or Versace? Reflexion brings glamorous or poetic exteriors from across the street directly into the retailer’s windows. A world that is ever moving. Here is Versace’s mirrored wall, and arched ceilings, which creates a 360-degree world. Then we have Cavalli’s chrome plated males, perhaps automaton’s, formidable, but the Cavalli clothing slides on like snakeskin.
Beautiful Clutter: one of my favorite trends, done here by two of my favorite retailers, Anthropologie and Barny's . It’s poetic, deconstructionist, and creates a sense of magic. Not easily carried off, both retailers find familiar or common objects and place them together to create whimsy and nostalgia. Passers-by can spend hours trying to absorb the complexities. Anthropologie made a beautiful tableau of bright yellow roses from the tops of plastic water and soda bottles. It’s beautifully clever and feeds into the idea of recycling and eco-consciousness. I didn’t buy the ones at the store, but I think it will make a great Christmas ornament or Easter basket present. A mat knife and a can of spray paint, and you’re ready to go. Very clever. Barneys created elaborate headdresses from related objects. It is Ziegfeldian in scope. The headdresses are so fascinating that you’ll note I was more interested in the display than the merchandise. Themes included old toys, clocks, red China and aluminum kitchen gadgets. I loved it!
The Eyes Have It: simple, but effective, large attractive graphics that feature eyes seem to capture our attention, often used with headless mannequins it seems to give the forms a real personality. On the other hand, maybe it’s the retailer’s way of saying we’re looking at you too. Here is Benetton, Esprit and Lacoste's take on it.
Watered Down: it’s been a rainy summer, and adding to the deluge, is a preponderance of watered inspired windows, There’s Juicy Couture’s self-titled “Culture Catch” with an ice blue filter, which places the first five feet of the store under water. The window had mannequins in wet suits with flippers and a seated female in a giant clam shell. It’s clever. I loved Tiffany’s fish tank windows with bubbling filtered water, gems and pearls were delicately strewn over beautifully composed mirrored coral. It’s such a great display that it begs the question, why keep your jewelry tucked away in a box, when your tropical fish might enjoy them too. Diesel had it raining in a constant stream, only the clothing never got wet. A fun window especially when it was pouring and we were getting soaked. The greatest nod to water came from Saks, who lined up bright yellow plastic tanks indicating what the typical American uses up in a day. Beautifully framed photos of people in third world countries drinking unsanitary water sharpened the point of the importance of water, something we tend to take for granted. It was a remarkable and socially aggatitative window that challenged passers by, and required sensitivity. Kudos to the retailer who takes risks and educates the customer.
Man Ray: Okay, this isn’t a trend, but it should be. Bergdorf Goodman’s shows that you don’t need a huge plate glass window to make a lot of impact. With a simple plaster sculpture, Bergdorf Goodman’s replicated the classic Man Ran photograph of a woman with a cello f-hole (I know that sounds dirty, but it's really what they're called) tatoo. Feminine and covert are only two adjectives frequently used to describe Man’s Rays classic. Bergdorf’s homage would inspire even the most jaded Dadaist. One word… BRILLIANT!
Photography: Diesel created one of this years most ponderous windows with illustrated art, scientific photographs, some macabre, some innocuous. Dropped into the window from above was an isolated framed out cube with a merchandised watch. What did it mean? No one could agree, but it got people to stop and discuss. Kudos! Bergdorf Goodman used old-fashioned stereoscopic photographs from the 1920’s to great effect. It was vintage, kitschy and smart.
Hot Colors: Mark Jacobs on Bleeker Street sprayed their mannequins in hot neon colors and taped the forms directly to the wall with bright colored painters tape. No merchandise, just color. The message: it’s all about color. Armani Exchange, Barney's, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman's have been heavily promoting strong color for men. Will guys be wear fire-engine orange slacks, hot pink suits or phosphorescent yellow shirts, you be the judge.
Really Big Shoe: Shoes and boots are prominently featured in windows. Footwear has become an important note in completing the male silhouette. Footwear is front and forward. The toes remain elongated, the heels are chunky 1’ or more, mostly black, and create a dominate note to traditional attire. Sexy.
