("Mona Lisa" Fernando Botero) It was not too long ago in our history that “We reserve the right to not serve… (fill in the blank”) signs were posted throughout America. These were commonplace disclaimers that helped to marginalize people of color, the Irish, Jews, Chinese, actors, dogs and children. Times have changed…or have they? Retailers in a strange twist are now refusing to carry “large size” clothing. Large, constituting size 12 and up. Please note that the national average size of an adult woman in America is size 14. In fact, nearly 70% of all women are size 12 and up. Does average/normal constitute “plus”? TBD. Wake up and smell the coffee! The bigger question is, if you know that over 70% of your demographic is over size 12, why would you opt to limit your potential sales by 2/3rds? Retailers will complain that that sales are stagnant due to the economy, that may in part be very well true, but what may also be true is that retailers by and large have joined the chorus and made it very clear that “fat people” are not welcome here. Ann Taylor recently announced that it stopped ordering size 16 for its namesake and Loft divisions. Starting here, starting now, the size will only be available on-line. An Ann Taylor representative blamed low demand for the size in both brands, but some industry experts speculate that the elimination is really a cost-cutting measure. “It’s more expensive to produce,” says one retail expert, explaining that larger sizes need separate patterns cut and fitted, which can be quite costly. In truth, every size garment needs a separate pattern and to be cut. What? In addition, production requires more fabric. Duh, isn’t that why you charge more for it? Ann Taylor was one of the last retailers to offer the size within its stores. Ann Taylor is in good company, Gap Inc.’s Banana Republic has not sold size 16 in stores for several years. J. Crew only sells the size Online. Michelle Obama are you listening? In a world of thinny mini’s, there is a strong bias in the fashion community. At the recent Fashion Group International symposium moderated by Norma Kamali one attendee inquired of Julie Gilhart SR. V.P. & Fashion Dir., of Barney’s why the store (Barney’s) no longer sells even a size 12 anymore? Gilhart confided without a note of condescension in her voice that “those” kinds of women tend not to shop at Barneys. The Barney’s customer is trendier, and besides if she orders say three size 12’s they just sit on the rack. Smug attracts smug. The horn rimmed and bespectacled Kamali concurs that the same is true of her store and showroom. Kamali just launched a line at Wal-Mart where sizes start at 12 and go up, (FYI: everything costs below 60.00 average price point just 29.00 including her signature trench coat!!!) Kamali expressed her amazement that “those” big women really know style too. Gilhart suggested that “those” women (Barney rejects) could always find something stylish at Wal-mart. Giggle-giggle. Then the panel moved on to talk about the importance of transparency and eco-consciousness in the industry. I nearly had an Alexis Harrington moment. I was fit to be tied! All I can tell you it was a good think they weren’t selling banana cream pies in the lobby. While Old Navy still offers sizes 0 through 20 in stores, it did away with separate Plus Size departments two years ago. www.oldnavy.com offers sizes 16-30. Sister brand Gap offers sizes 0 to 16 in stores and 0 to 30 on its Website. Plus-sized women “really have to try it on,” said Patty Hughes, who runs Curvy Girl Style, a website that offers style tips and insight to curvy women. “Everyone is not the same size that’s the beauty of us women, and retailers don’t get that.” They sure don’t! Three years ago, several department stores ranging from Neiman Marcus to Saks Fifth Avenue began cutting back on their petite offerings. Nevertheless, public outrage caused the stores to reconsider. Plus-size women are hoping for a similar reprieve. Ann Taylor, a retailer known for offering an array of sizes ranging from petite size 00 to regular 16, has had its share of problems recently. The retailer is closing more than 160 stores, suffered a net loss of $334 million last year, and saw its revenue shrink by 9%. In January, Ann Taylor reported double-digit same-store sales declines for the fourth quarter of 2008 in both divisions. Retailers grow up! Until that time divas unite, our new anthem, Mika’s “Big Girl You Are Beautiful” For a real treat, please visit www.youtube .com to take a listen…
