Once upon a time carnivals traversed America, pitching tents in the boon-docks to bring the magic of the circus to small towns everywhere. Barnum & Bailey, the Cole Brothers and the Ringling Brothers performed their acrobatics underneath the canvas high-top as the public gaped in wonder and fear. Another form of tent shows were the grand revival meetings with evangelists promising to save souls like Aimee Semple McPherson, Father Billy Sunday and Marjo Gortner. They sold bibles and salvation. Whether you came for the cotton candy, two-headed lion, or to see someone convulse into tongues as the devil was cast out of them, the tent shows were an entertainment mainstay, a colorful diversion from the monotony of daily life.
However, that was nearly a century ago, and today we are far more sophisticated…not.
This is Fashion Week in New York City, the annual Spring/Summer shows are up and running and the tent has been pitched in Bryant Park. Gone is the free ice skating rink to make way for the catwalk. The event has grown well past the capacity of the park, and plans (tentative) are to hold next year’s function on the roof of the Port Authority Bus Terminal in the Fashion District (gas masks not provided).
The Bryant Park tent shows are the “must see,” “must be seen at” fashion event of the year. Getting into the show is just about as difficult as getting a back stage pass to see the Jonas Brothers. Still, over the week about 100,000 lucky fashionistas will manage to secure a ticket. If you do get in, the only two-headed animal, or seizure-induced doyenne speaking in tongues you may see is a well-known fashion editor who shall remain nameless.
My grandmother used to say, “There are the way things are, and the way things appear to be. Remember, my darling, you will be judged by the way things appear to be, not are.” Fashion companies have taken that advice to heart, and the appearance of $25,000 frocks, luxury handbags and shoes does not read as culturally sensitive to the tenur of the times. Over indulged celebrities sitting in the front row are a bit of a turn off. There is a “back-lash,” and as a result, there is a noticeable absence of Olson Twins, Victoria Beckham's, Paris Hilton's and Jennifer Lopez's at this year’s events.
The economy has affected the wealthy too. Designers and fashion houses remain fiscally cautious, but flush. Life has conspired to make this year’s finale go out like a whimper. The cost to produce a show at the event exceeds the limited budget of many a successful designer. It costs between $28,000 and $58,000 just to rent one of three spaces in Bryant Park, but when you factor in the cost of models, DJs, makeup sets, lighting, and hair, the cost of a show can balloon beyond $500,000...emphasis on easily.
Some of the designers just opted out of the event all together, including Vera Wang, Betsey (Crocker) Johnson and Carmen Marc Valvo. Others are showing, but scaling back. Halston is e-mailing a music video featuring its new collection, instead of doing a show. Their star is model Dree Hemingway, daughter of Mariel, niece of Margo, and great granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway. Sharing a tent is Mara Hoffman, Nicholas K and Sergio Davila, who are combining their lines in a joint show to save costs. Other labels, like Tracy Reese, are staying near Bryant Park, but downsizing to smaller venues. Most noticeable is the number of designers dialing back on their productions. Of this season’s collections in and outside the tents, 131 are runway offerings and 66 are producing less costly presentations, where clothing is displayed on mannequins, and it is their guests who do the strutting. A hot ticket was the off-site show of Jason Wu, designer of the white dress with organza flowers that was worn by Michelle Obama to the inaugural balls.
Tommy Hilfiger and Narciso Rodriguez will make up for some of that lost luster, each returning to the tent shows after three years. Where one door closes, another opens, exiting designers have opened up space for up-and-comers like new entrants Justin Timberlake’s brand, William Rast and Christian Siriano, winner of the “Project Runway” television show. Which by the way, the finale for the still-unbroadcast season of the legally troubled series remains in jeopardy…
One of the amusements of the week is a show celebrating Barbie’s 50th anniversary. Fifty designers, including Michael Kors, created human-sized Barbie-inspired looks that were worn by real models, and then exhibited at Bloomingdale’s. For a quick peek, check out "The Barbie Runway Show," webcast live on www.barbie.com. Another special event was "The Heart Truth's Red Dress Collection 2009." Real life celebrities Katie Couric, Cloris Leachman, Tori Spelling and Jennie Garth are among the we-don't-do-this-every-day types celebrating the red dress as the national symbol for heart disease awareness.
Okay, so maybe retail can take a lesson from the tent shows, give America what it wants, a colorful diversion, something beautiful to look at, but scale back, join forces with your peers, move to less costly spaces, focus on affordable fashion, create special events, support charitable endeavors and think outside of the box.
Time permitting, check out my prior post on the tent shows, “The Hottest Ticket” posted on this very site on 09/04/07. I swear I do not have a crystal ball!
Courtesy of www.retaildesigndiva.com where it appeared on
